Thursday, January 15, 2009 Fort Lauderdale, Florida……Home!
I am very sorry that I have not completed the chronicles of my travels. The last month and a half of travels kind of burnt me out, and the will to write sort of went away for a while.
Pipe Dream is now tucked away for the winter at Bowen Island, British Columbia. The last couple of days of the journey down the Inland Passage went very smoothly and quickly, as we had the current pushing us for most of the day. Not far from Otter Cove was the Seymour Narrows, with the possibility of fourteen knot currents and whirlpools that have taken boats and lives. According to the charts, even ocean liners wait until slack tide to go through.
Before 1958, there was a rock in the middle of the pass called “ripple rock”. Many attempts had been made to remove the rock, and several workmen were killed in the process. The decision was made to dig a tunnel under the rock, and place a charge under it to blow it up. The explosion was the largest non-nuclear blast ever recorded, and ripple rock was blown three hundred and fifty feet into the air in the process, and the narrows are a much safer place now.
We did not have current tide charts, but there was a tug and log barge circling, waiting for the conditions necessary to go through. I was just going to hail the tug on the radio to ask for information, when he hit the throttles and took off for the pass. We followed and sped through the pass at over ten knots ground speed, with just a couple of very slight whirlpools providing a slingshot effect.
We arrived at the Union Steamship Marina late in the afternoon and tied up the boat for the last time this year. The owner of the marina met us on the dock, and I gave him a brief run through on bilges, pumps, and engine controls, so in case of emergency, he at least has seen things and will have the ability to act quickly if necessary. He and his wife then took us to dinner at their restaurant. It was the Canadian Harvest Day weekend, so I had a Thanksgiving type of meal which was the special.
Pipe Dream’s berth is quite close to the ferry dock, and every time the ferry comes, the noise that reverberates through the hull will wake the soundest of sleepers. After a night of rest, I began removing the sails and hired a helper to work with me. We folded the main and dropped the jib and folded it. The forepeak got emptied. Tyler and I worked very hard getting everything off of the boat and put in a storage facility. Scott was leaving the following afternoon, so I put the van which was lent to us by the marina into the ferry line at noon. The ferry ride over to Vancouver was very smooth, and took about twenty minutes.
I dropped Scott off at the airport in plenty of time for him to make his flight. On the way back to the boat, there were two accidents on the Lion’s Gate Bridge, so I ended up in a five hour traffic jam.
I spent the last days winterizing the boat and packing up the things which had to be shipped home. I met with the people I will be working with in spring at the boat yard, and discussed the repairs that will be done. I also tried to make the spreaders inaccessible to the large birds by tying lines in such a way that there is no room for them to land. I hope it works!
I had dinner one night with Rick and Mary aboard their boat, and we quickly became friends. They visited Bowen Island over New Years and sent me some photos of PipeDream covered in a blanket of snow. It felt kind of funny seeing her like that, and I sat down and thought about how lucky I have been.
The past year and a half, I have traveled the world and met an awful lot of very wonderful people. I can only say a heartfelt THANK YOU!!! to each and every one of you for giving me a wonderful experience. My travels will resume in February, when I return to Pipe Dream. I am looking forward to making the repairs and then resuming our cruise beginning in April.
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
Thursday, October 16, 2008
Jeff's Log ~ Saturday, October 11th, 2008
Saturday, October 11, 2008 Otter Cove
Now don’t get confused. This is Otter Cove, not Sea Otter Cove! We followed a route down the Inland Passage with a lot of twists and turns with lots of really pretty scenery to get here. On the way, this afternoon, while I was on watch, I spotted a pod of Orcas off of our starboard bow. We turned to intercept them, and I managed to get a couple of good photos before they dove deep and disappeared. That really made the trip complete! I now have photos of bears, Humpback whales, salmon, and finally Orcas. They are quite majestic with their very large dorsal fins. They were very graceful as they surfaced and blew repeatedly within a couple of boat lengths of us.
This evening, we are anchored in a small cove that is in the middle of a logging operation. They are in the process of the cleanup phase, and there are many fires and lots of smoke in the air. The one good thing is that there are no mosquitoes or any other biting insects around. The gas grill on the stern pulpit got used to cook chicken tonight, and it was its farewell meal. I have been propping it together to cook on, and it has been having more pieces come loose every time. Tonight’s chicken was not one of it’s better jobs, so I have decided to bid it farewell and let it finish it’s days as a marine sanctuary beginning tomorrow morning. Scott is giving me his blessing to proceed with this noble duty. The air is much warmer tonight than it has been for a few days, so we are just running heat long enough to dry things up a bit before bed. Tomorrow will be the second last day of what has been a wonderful journey, and we are planning to be at another resort for dinner.
Now don’t get confused. This is Otter Cove, not Sea Otter Cove! We followed a route down the Inland Passage with a lot of twists and turns with lots of really pretty scenery to get here. On the way, this afternoon, while I was on watch, I spotted a pod of Orcas off of our starboard bow. We turned to intercept them, and I managed to get a couple of good photos before they dove deep and disappeared. That really made the trip complete! I now have photos of bears, Humpback whales, salmon, and finally Orcas. They are quite majestic with their very large dorsal fins. They were very graceful as they surfaced and blew repeatedly within a couple of boat lengths of us.
This evening, we are anchored in a small cove that is in the middle of a logging operation. They are in the process of the cleanup phase, and there are many fires and lots of smoke in the air. The one good thing is that there are no mosquitoes or any other biting insects around. The gas grill on the stern pulpit got used to cook chicken tonight, and it was its farewell meal. I have been propping it together to cook on, and it has been having more pieces come loose every time. Tonight’s chicken was not one of it’s better jobs, so I have decided to bid it farewell and let it finish it’s days as a marine sanctuary beginning tomorrow morning. Scott is giving me his blessing to proceed with this noble duty. The air is much warmer tonight than it has been for a few days, so we are just running heat long enough to dry things up a bit before bed. Tomorrow will be the second last day of what has been a wonderful journey, and we are planning to be at another resort for dinner.
Jeff's Log ~ Friday, October 10th, 2008
Friday Morning, October 10, 2008 Port Hardy, British Columbia, Canada 0229
I guess that I must have turned in a little too early last night because here it is at 0230, and I am awake and raring to go. The days are blending into each other, and time is flying by, even though it seems like it is dragging by slowly. We are now at about 160 miles from our final destination for the winter, which is in Vancouver.
We left Shear Water Marina on the eighth, at about 1000. We stopped at the fuel dock and topped off the two fuel bladders, to make sure we had enough fuel for possibly motoring all the way to Vancouver. We then continued our trip down the Inland Passage to Fish Egg Inlet. The morning weather was fine. It was possibly some of the nicest weather we have had since entering Canada. After lunch it turned stormy again, with blustery winds and hard cold rain. It was pouring as we entered Green Island cove and set the anchor. I cooked dinner of fried chicken, mashed potatoes and corn, and made a dessert of apples baked with cinnamon sticks and a crumb topping. After the cold and rainy afternoon, the food was comforting, and as the night turned totally black, we both went to bed rather early.
The fore and aft heaters still are acting up, so we warmed up the boat with only the main salon heat. It got really chilly at about 0200. I broke out my heated back massaging pad and laid on it with the heat on, and quickly fell back to sleep. We woke to clear skies and after morning coffee, pulled the anchor and got under way once again. We had about seventy miles to Port Hardy. The morning was again absolutely beautiful, as we traversed Fitzhugh Sound, and the Queen Charlotte Strait. There were storms building west of us that provided excellent sailing breeze. There was a slight problem though. In Shearwater, with high winds predicted, I had lashed the mainsail and closed the cover. In order to put the main up, I had to undo all of that. We sailed under jib alone for a while, but it was very ineffective with the wind so far behind us. I got up on the boom and began releasing the cover clips, but in the large quartering swells, I decided that it was a little too dangerous to be up there.
We poked along, until after lunch and a slight turn in our course put the seas a little more behind us. I pulled the boom to the side, stood on the dingy, and got the rest of the clips undone. There was some motivation provided by another sailboat that was closing on us from behind. When I see another sailboat, it is always a race; I don’t care where I am! Scott turned Pipe Dream into the wind, we raised the main, then resumed our course, and the other boat quickly shrank and disappeared over the transom. With the large quartering waves, the autopilot did a little too much wandering for my taste, so I drove the boat. It was good fun and a little bit of a workout, as we had twenty plus knots of breeze from directly astern and three meter quartering seas. I needed some practice driving downwind, and got it. After a while, I was confident enough to close my eyes and drive by the feel of the wind on my neck and ears. I have never been able to do that before. We picked up some kelp on the keel, and the boat slowed to fewer than ten knots, and down below it sounded like a machine gun rapping on the bottom of the hull. The turbulence caused would make the whole boat wobble as we surfed down the waves. We had to jibe in a short while, so I drove her like that to the jibe point.
Jibing is the act of taking the stern through the wind, and the main has to be swung around to the other side. Because of the kelp, we had to tack the boat around to the other board, using the engine, and allowing the boat to stop and begin moving backwards. Tacking the boat puts the bow through the wind. As we suspected, a very large bunch of kelp came off the keel. As we stated to sail, we could see that we were still dragging it, so we put the bow in the wind again, and let her back until it was clear. After getting rid of our underwater baggage, Pipe dream felt like a sports car. Our course took us to a beam reach, and the wind freshened to twenty-eight knots. It sure didn’t take long to complete the last four miles. I was a little occupied watching the course over ground instrument to avoid shallows to monitor speed, but when I did glance at it, it was twelve and a half knots. That’s Cruisin’!!! As we approached the small harbor, we sadly had to drop the main and end a very nice day of sailing, becoming a power boat again for the short trip to our dock. Port Hardy is a small resort town. The marina is quiet and the people are friendly. The restaurant is a cozy kind of place, with hockey on the TV. After having the special of ribs and chicken, and a piece of cheesecake, I called it a night. Tomorrow should be a fairly easy, short forty mile day. Our slip in Vancouver will not be available until Monday, so we will take our time finishing the journey.
Friday Night, October 10, 2008, 2100
This morning, after coffee, I was going to have breakfast up at the pub. As I stepped onto the dock, I realized that the entire dock was covered in frost. That is something that I haven’t seen in a long time. The last part of the floating dock before the ramp was extremely slippery. After the treacherous walk, the restaurant was found to be closed temporarily, so I reversed course and slipped and slid my way back to the boat for an English muffin with jelly.
The weather God smiled on us again today. We could not sail, but it was a totally clear, sunny day and the mountain tops were all covered in fresh snow as we started this morning. Visibility was at least twenty miles, and the wind was light and on the nose. As the day progressed, we watched the snow cover disappear from the lower elevations due to the warm sun. Tonight we are anchored in a place called Pott’s Lagoon. It is a very clear night, and the half moon is so bright, that I thought that maybe sunglasses would be needed to comfortably look around. There are four floating homes nearby, but only one is occupied at present. As we anchored and got settled, we observed a middle aged couple tending to their chores. It was pretty neat when we pulled up and saw the smoke coming from the chimney. Scott at first did not like the idea of anchoring in close proximity to the cabins, but after a while, he was ok with it. This place is so quiet and sheltered from the wind, that for the first time ever, we could hear a sea gull land in the water at a distance of seventy five yards. They are actually quite noisy when they take off and land. This evening’s dinner was spaghetti with meat sauce and a bottle of wine. It is tough being a pair of bachelors on a sailing adventure.
I guess that I must have turned in a little too early last night because here it is at 0230, and I am awake and raring to go. The days are blending into each other, and time is flying by, even though it seems like it is dragging by slowly. We are now at about 160 miles from our final destination for the winter, which is in Vancouver.
We left Shear Water Marina on the eighth, at about 1000. We stopped at the fuel dock and topped off the two fuel bladders, to make sure we had enough fuel for possibly motoring all the way to Vancouver. We then continued our trip down the Inland Passage to Fish Egg Inlet. The morning weather was fine. It was possibly some of the nicest weather we have had since entering Canada. After lunch it turned stormy again, with blustery winds and hard cold rain. It was pouring as we entered Green Island cove and set the anchor. I cooked dinner of fried chicken, mashed potatoes and corn, and made a dessert of apples baked with cinnamon sticks and a crumb topping. After the cold and rainy afternoon, the food was comforting, and as the night turned totally black, we both went to bed rather early.
The fore and aft heaters still are acting up, so we warmed up the boat with only the main salon heat. It got really chilly at about 0200. I broke out my heated back massaging pad and laid on it with the heat on, and quickly fell back to sleep. We woke to clear skies and after morning coffee, pulled the anchor and got under way once again. We had about seventy miles to Port Hardy. The morning was again absolutely beautiful, as we traversed Fitzhugh Sound, and the Queen Charlotte Strait. There were storms building west of us that provided excellent sailing breeze. There was a slight problem though. In Shearwater, with high winds predicted, I had lashed the mainsail and closed the cover. In order to put the main up, I had to undo all of that. We sailed under jib alone for a while, but it was very ineffective with the wind so far behind us. I got up on the boom and began releasing the cover clips, but in the large quartering swells, I decided that it was a little too dangerous to be up there.
We poked along, until after lunch and a slight turn in our course put the seas a little more behind us. I pulled the boom to the side, stood on the dingy, and got the rest of the clips undone. There was some motivation provided by another sailboat that was closing on us from behind. When I see another sailboat, it is always a race; I don’t care where I am! Scott turned Pipe Dream into the wind, we raised the main, then resumed our course, and the other boat quickly shrank and disappeared over the transom. With the large quartering waves, the autopilot did a little too much wandering for my taste, so I drove the boat. It was good fun and a little bit of a workout, as we had twenty plus knots of breeze from directly astern and three meter quartering seas. I needed some practice driving downwind, and got it. After a while, I was confident enough to close my eyes and drive by the feel of the wind on my neck and ears. I have never been able to do that before. We picked up some kelp on the keel, and the boat slowed to fewer than ten knots, and down below it sounded like a machine gun rapping on the bottom of the hull. The turbulence caused would make the whole boat wobble as we surfed down the waves. We had to jibe in a short while, so I drove her like that to the jibe point.
Jibing is the act of taking the stern through the wind, and the main has to be swung around to the other side. Because of the kelp, we had to tack the boat around to the other board, using the engine, and allowing the boat to stop and begin moving backwards. Tacking the boat puts the bow through the wind. As we suspected, a very large bunch of kelp came off the keel. As we stated to sail, we could see that we were still dragging it, so we put the bow in the wind again, and let her back until it was clear. After getting rid of our underwater baggage, Pipe dream felt like a sports car. Our course took us to a beam reach, and the wind freshened to twenty-eight knots. It sure didn’t take long to complete the last four miles. I was a little occupied watching the course over ground instrument to avoid shallows to monitor speed, but when I did glance at it, it was twelve and a half knots. That’s Cruisin’!!! As we approached the small harbor, we sadly had to drop the main and end a very nice day of sailing, becoming a power boat again for the short trip to our dock. Port Hardy is a small resort town. The marina is quiet and the people are friendly. The restaurant is a cozy kind of place, with hockey on the TV. After having the special of ribs and chicken, and a piece of cheesecake, I called it a night. Tomorrow should be a fairly easy, short forty mile day. Our slip in Vancouver will not be available until Monday, so we will take our time finishing the journey.
Friday Night, October 10, 2008, 2100
This morning, after coffee, I was going to have breakfast up at the pub. As I stepped onto the dock, I realized that the entire dock was covered in frost. That is something that I haven’t seen in a long time. The last part of the floating dock before the ramp was extremely slippery. After the treacherous walk, the restaurant was found to be closed temporarily, so I reversed course and slipped and slid my way back to the boat for an English muffin with jelly.
The weather God smiled on us again today. We could not sail, but it was a totally clear, sunny day and the mountain tops were all covered in fresh snow as we started this morning. Visibility was at least twenty miles, and the wind was light and on the nose. As the day progressed, we watched the snow cover disappear from the lower elevations due to the warm sun. Tonight we are anchored in a place called Pott’s Lagoon. It is a very clear night, and the half moon is so bright, that I thought that maybe sunglasses would be needed to comfortably look around. There are four floating homes nearby, but only one is occupied at present. As we anchored and got settled, we observed a middle aged couple tending to their chores. It was pretty neat when we pulled up and saw the smoke coming from the chimney. Scott at first did not like the idea of anchoring in close proximity to the cabins, but after a while, he was ok with it. This place is so quiet and sheltered from the wind, that for the first time ever, we could hear a sea gull land in the water at a distance of seventy five yards. They are actually quite noisy when they take off and land. This evening’s dinner was spaghetti with meat sauce and a bottle of wine. It is tough being a pair of bachelors on a sailing adventure.
Captain Scott's Log ~ Friday, October 10th, 2008
1:09 PM
Subject: Vancouver Island
3 days in Shearwater hunkered down for the "hurricane" that never even
whimpered. On the last night we had sleet and hail all night. Snow plows
were working inland. Wed I had to push on. We sailed by NAMU another old
cannery with dozens of old stately crumbling building. Like Burkedale it had
only one resident. These places were a big deal a hundred years ago. Much to
my amazement both places are on the world map that hangs on the bulkhead.
That night was in yet another perfectly sheltered cove--Green Island 51 38
5n 127 50w. Thursday we left the inside passage to sail across Queen
Charollete Strait and sail we did. 25 kts from behind got us surfing. Nearly
70 miles to the NW tip of Vancouver Island to Port Hardy, a resort. Thur and
Fri have been clear and cold. Outside temp 41 this morning at 10am. It froze
last night and there is ice on the dock.
Subject: Vancouver Island
3 days in Shearwater hunkered down for the "hurricane" that never even
whimpered. On the last night we had sleet and hail all night. Snow plows
were working inland. Wed I had to push on. We sailed by NAMU another old
cannery with dozens of old stately crumbling building. Like Burkedale it had
only one resident. These places were a big deal a hundred years ago. Much to
my amazement both places are on the world map that hangs on the bulkhead.
That night was in yet another perfectly sheltered cove--Green Island 51 38
5n 127 50w. Thursday we left the inside passage to sail across Queen
Charollete Strait and sail we did. 25 kts from behind got us surfing. Nearly
70 miles to the NW tip of Vancouver Island to Port Hardy, a resort. Thur and
Fri have been clear and cold. Outside temp 41 this morning at 10am. It froze
last night and there is ice on the dock.
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
Jeff's Log ~ Tuesday, October 7th, 2008
Tuesday, October 7, 2008 Shearwater Marina, Bella Bella, British Columbia
On our way from The Verny falls, we stopped at an old cannery called Butedale. The place is mostly in ruins, but there is a caretaker living there by the name of Lou. He is known as Butedale Lou. He stays there with his dog named Bert, who was born there and orphaned when he was a pup by a pack of wolves that killed the rest of his family. There is also an orange cat that looks like George, who is named Tiger.George is a lucky cat that is owned by a very dear friend of mine, Ivani. Tiger and Bert met us at the fairly solid, but rustic, floating dock. They were followed by Lou, who also came down to meet us, even though it was raining.
There were lots of interesting things to look at in the ruins. Lou took us on a little tour and told us how things were in the cannery heydays. The old power house that was a hydro-electric plant is still there, and the pipes that run down to it from the lake above still supply the stream of water which still is used to turn the old generator. The big generators no longer function, but the machinery still is used to turn an automotive alternator wit a belt driven off of the old armature. He has an inverter which supplies AC power for vcr and TV, as well as a little bit of lighting. There is a 12 volt battery bank which is charged by the alternator. That keeps the refrigeration working, as during the summer, Lou sells ice cream to his visitors. He also does painted native style carvings out of a large yellow cedar log that he drug in to shore a couple of years ago. He cuts and split’s the log himself, and makes his own finished boards from it, utilizing a hydro powered planer which is part of the old machinery. Quite a tough old fella, I must say.
He seems very happy and content, but is talking about retiring and returning to civilization, although he gets a gleam in his eye when he says that Butedale is the perfect place to live. I was impressed when we walked in to his home, and with a single wood burning stove, it was dry and very large inside. Things were kept pretty clean too. He lives in what was the mess hall. There are a couple of cabins, and during summer, he also rents rooms to fishermen and hunters. You would have to enjoy rustic living to stay there! After our tour, Lou joined us aboard Pipe Dream, and we all had a cocktail. Bert waited patiently in the cockpit for his master to finish. Lou enjoyed seeing the map of where the boat has been, and after a short while, it was time for us to leave, as we wanted to get to the next anchorage before dark. Lou gave us a hand with our lines, and we were off. We anchored in Bottleneck Cove, along with two other sailboats from Australia.
Morning found us leaving in the rain, and both of them staying, awaiting better weather. We made our course for Bella Bella, and arrived here at the shearwater Marina well before dark. The weather did deteriorate all day, and right outside the pass to Bella Bella, it was downright nasty with the cold rain being blown sideways, making the awning all but useless. My feet got cold, and I turned into a whimpering baby, and had to turn the heat on when my watch was completed. It’s amazing to me how cold feet can do that.
Shearwater has all of the proper stuff. A bar and restaurant that is pretty good, a Laundromat, and clean restrooms and showers. Hurricane winds were predicted, so we stayed an extra day. We never saw any of that wind, but I was glad for just a little time to relax ashore, with the shore power connected, and the heat on. It is nice to have a dry atmosphere for a change. As we were getting prepared to leave today, Scott noticed that the radar appeared to be cocked. The gimbaled mount that has been cracked since I got on the boat is now really cracked, and was in danger of breaking. I went up on the main halyard, and disassembled the radar antenna and removed the whole thing from the backstay. It took a while to gain access to all of the wiring, and supporting myself while not losing any of the pieces was quite a feat. I got the job completed, and now have a few aches and pains, and a stiff joint or two.
As I was putting away all of the stuff from that project, I noticed that the heat in the fore and aft cabins had quit working. The seawater pump was not running. I pulled up the necessary floor boards, and discovered a broken shaft for the impeller. I robbed the necessary parts from the used spare pump, and had that repaired by lunchtime. We chose to stay here another night, as there were still some squalls coming through from the storm that missed us. The dinner special was lamb shank with risotto, so staying the extra day turned out just fine for me.
On our way from The Verny falls, we stopped at an old cannery called Butedale. The place is mostly in ruins, but there is a caretaker living there by the name of Lou. He is known as Butedale Lou. He stays there with his dog named Bert, who was born there and orphaned when he was a pup by a pack of wolves that killed the rest of his family. There is also an orange cat that looks like George, who is named Tiger.George is a lucky cat that is owned by a very dear friend of mine, Ivani. Tiger and Bert met us at the fairly solid, but rustic, floating dock. They were followed by Lou, who also came down to meet us, even though it was raining.
There were lots of interesting things to look at in the ruins. Lou took us on a little tour and told us how things were in the cannery heydays. The old power house that was a hydro-electric plant is still there, and the pipes that run down to it from the lake above still supply the stream of water which still is used to turn the old generator. The big generators no longer function, but the machinery still is used to turn an automotive alternator wit a belt driven off of the old armature. He has an inverter which supplies AC power for vcr and TV, as well as a little bit of lighting. There is a 12 volt battery bank which is charged by the alternator. That keeps the refrigeration working, as during the summer, Lou sells ice cream to his visitors. He also does painted native style carvings out of a large yellow cedar log that he drug in to shore a couple of years ago. He cuts and split’s the log himself, and makes his own finished boards from it, utilizing a hydro powered planer which is part of the old machinery. Quite a tough old fella, I must say.
He seems very happy and content, but is talking about retiring and returning to civilization, although he gets a gleam in his eye when he says that Butedale is the perfect place to live. I was impressed when we walked in to his home, and with a single wood burning stove, it was dry and very large inside. Things were kept pretty clean too. He lives in what was the mess hall. There are a couple of cabins, and during summer, he also rents rooms to fishermen and hunters. You would have to enjoy rustic living to stay there! After our tour, Lou joined us aboard Pipe Dream, and we all had a cocktail. Bert waited patiently in the cockpit for his master to finish. Lou enjoyed seeing the map of where the boat has been, and after a short while, it was time for us to leave, as we wanted to get to the next anchorage before dark. Lou gave us a hand with our lines, and we were off. We anchored in Bottleneck Cove, along with two other sailboats from Australia.
Morning found us leaving in the rain, and both of them staying, awaiting better weather. We made our course for Bella Bella, and arrived here at the shearwater Marina well before dark. The weather did deteriorate all day, and right outside the pass to Bella Bella, it was downright nasty with the cold rain being blown sideways, making the awning all but useless. My feet got cold, and I turned into a whimpering baby, and had to turn the heat on when my watch was completed. It’s amazing to me how cold feet can do that.
Shearwater has all of the proper stuff. A bar and restaurant that is pretty good, a Laundromat, and clean restrooms and showers. Hurricane winds were predicted, so we stayed an extra day. We never saw any of that wind, but I was glad for just a little time to relax ashore, with the shore power connected, and the heat on. It is nice to have a dry atmosphere for a change. As we were getting prepared to leave today, Scott noticed that the radar appeared to be cocked. The gimbaled mount that has been cracked since I got on the boat is now really cracked, and was in danger of breaking. I went up on the main halyard, and disassembled the radar antenna and removed the whole thing from the backstay. It took a while to gain access to all of the wiring, and supporting myself while not losing any of the pieces was quite a feat. I got the job completed, and now have a few aches and pains, and a stiff joint or two.
As I was putting away all of the stuff from that project, I noticed that the heat in the fore and aft cabins had quit working. The seawater pump was not running. I pulled up the necessary floor boards, and discovered a broken shaft for the impeller. I robbed the necessary parts from the used spare pump, and had that repaired by lunchtime. We chose to stay here another night, as there were still some squalls coming through from the storm that missed us. The dinner special was lamb shank with risotto, so staying the extra day turned out just fine for me.
Captains Scott's Log ~ Tuesday, October 7th, 2008
Subject: hurricane & radar
Yesterdays hurricane amounted to 2 kts of wind gusting to 8. So today I got
the forcast in writing from the Coast Guard: "Today Tonight and Wednesday
Hurricane force wind warning in effect. Wind NW 55 to 65 kts". Its blowing 7
now so I decided to leave but noted a problem with the backstay radar mount.
The radar was tilted down 30 degrees with the front end pointing upwards. In
retrospect my first clue should have been several days ago --then I noted
something on radar approaching us very fast. I ran up on deck in time to see
the heliocopter pass. Now the radar is a hazard ready to fall on the
helmsmans head. So the morning was spent getting it down. Hope there is no
thick fog between here and Vancouver. Too late to leave so we will let this
hurricane pass and head south Wed
Yesterdays hurricane amounted to 2 kts of wind gusting to 8. So today I got
the forcast in writing from the Coast Guard: "Today Tonight and Wednesday
Hurricane force wind warning in effect. Wind NW 55 to 65 kts". Its blowing 7
now so I decided to leave but noted a problem with the backstay radar mount.
The radar was tilted down 30 degrees with the front end pointing upwards. In
retrospect my first clue should have been several days ago --then I noted
something on radar approaching us very fast. I ran up on deck in time to see
the heliocopter pass. Now the radar is a hazard ready to fall on the
helmsmans head. So the morning was spent getting it down. Hope there is no
thick fog between here and Vancouver. Too late to leave so we will let this
hurricane pass and head south Wed
Jeff's Log ~ Friday, October 3rd, 2008
Friday, October 3,2008 53 23.82N 129 17.20W, Otter Shoal, British Columbia, Canada
Yesterday, we just beat the high winds and most of the rain across Dixon Entrance, to our anchorage Kumealon Inlet. We did have to anchor three times because the anchor drug in the high winds. The third time proved to be the charm, and we stayed firmly anchored until morning. After a dinner of chicken with mushroom gravy, it was lights out.
Today, we slept in a little bit, and were under way by about 0900. The weather today was delightful, with partly cloudy skies, and light wind and the usual current on the nose. We anchored in a beautiful spot called Nettle Basin for lunch. It was a terrific anchorage right in front of Verney Waterfall. The waterfall is at the end of the river, and the river apparently breeds biting flies which drove us away after lunch. When we pulled into the cove, there were a lot of bubbles in the water. As we got closer to the falls, we encountered what at first appeared to be floating ice. On closer inspection, it was foam from the waterfall. Quite an interesting phenomenon, heh? We were wondering if maybe that had something to do with the flies.
At any rate, we headed back out into the channel, and traveled for another three and a half hours south to Otter Shoal, which is a fairly open spot, but fairly calm today. A south east blow would not be good, but I don’t think we need to worry about that tonight. We haven’t seen any otters, but we did hear the call of loons which is pretty neat. Tonight is a very simple dinner. We are making hot dogs and pork n beans. I’m going to have mine with relish, sour kraut, ketchup and mustard. It will be an early start tomorrow, so I will turn in early tonight. This is not really an exciting part of the journey is it!
Yesterday, we just beat the high winds and most of the rain across Dixon Entrance, to our anchorage Kumealon Inlet. We did have to anchor three times because the anchor drug in the high winds. The third time proved to be the charm, and we stayed firmly anchored until morning. After a dinner of chicken with mushroom gravy, it was lights out.
Today, we slept in a little bit, and were under way by about 0900. The weather today was delightful, with partly cloudy skies, and light wind and the usual current on the nose. We anchored in a beautiful spot called Nettle Basin for lunch. It was a terrific anchorage right in front of Verney Waterfall. The waterfall is at the end of the river, and the river apparently breeds biting flies which drove us away after lunch. When we pulled into the cove, there were a lot of bubbles in the water. As we got closer to the falls, we encountered what at first appeared to be floating ice. On closer inspection, it was foam from the waterfall. Quite an interesting phenomenon, heh? We were wondering if maybe that had something to do with the flies.
At any rate, we headed back out into the channel, and traveled for another three and a half hours south to Otter Shoal, which is a fairly open spot, but fairly calm today. A south east blow would not be good, but I don’t think we need to worry about that tonight. We haven’t seen any otters, but we did hear the call of loons which is pretty neat. Tonight is a very simple dinner. We are making hot dogs and pork n beans. I’m going to have mine with relish, sour kraut, ketchup and mustard. It will be an early start tomorrow, so I will turn in early tonight. This is not really an exciting part of the journey is it!
Jeff's Log ~ Wednesday, October 1st, 2008
Wednesday, October 1,2008, Foggy Bay, Alaska
We left Ketchikan on a glorious sunny morning. A little back-tracking was necessary for fuel and propane. The fuel dock provided for both needs, and we were on our way at about 1100. The trip down the channel this time was an awesome one with the splendor of the scenery visible for miles. About an hour after lunch, however, things began to deteriorate, and before long, we had gusts to 35 knots on the nose, and seas were building rapidly. Our destination of Foggy Bay was not far away, and we got there with a minimum of discomfort. The channel in to the anchorage was very narrow, and Scott drove the boat slowly while I directed him from the nav. Station. There was only one time when I had to really get tough with him because he did not want to follow my direction. After we were anchored, I showed him on the chart what he could not see under water, and we are still friends.
Ken left us some Friskies cat food to try in the crab trap. I cleaned out the very rotten chicken that produced no results, and installed the cat food. That yielded the usual results this morning. You guessed it, an empty trap. They sure make it look easy on the deadliest catch tv show! While we were at anchor last night, the sky was full of stars, and they were so bright, one could almost read in the cockpit. We fell asleep to the sound of wolves howling. Sometimes close and fairly loud, and sometimes distant and very hushed. That sure was neat. I wonder what they were talking about.
This morning, we were up at 0700, and the tide was low. We both could see what we navigated through yesterday afternoon, and congratulated each other on the job that we did. Navigation out was done the same way, retracing the path that was left on the chart plotter. We were safely outside the rocks by 0815, and Scott took the first watch. We expect wind and seas to build all day as we go to the Chatham Straights, on the other side of the Dixon Inlet.
We left Ketchikan on a glorious sunny morning. A little back-tracking was necessary for fuel and propane. The fuel dock provided for both needs, and we were on our way at about 1100. The trip down the channel this time was an awesome one with the splendor of the scenery visible for miles. About an hour after lunch, however, things began to deteriorate, and before long, we had gusts to 35 knots on the nose, and seas were building rapidly. Our destination of Foggy Bay was not far away, and we got there with a minimum of discomfort. The channel in to the anchorage was very narrow, and Scott drove the boat slowly while I directed him from the nav. Station. There was only one time when I had to really get tough with him because he did not want to follow my direction. After we were anchored, I showed him on the chart what he could not see under water, and we are still friends.
Ken left us some Friskies cat food to try in the crab trap. I cleaned out the very rotten chicken that produced no results, and installed the cat food. That yielded the usual results this morning. You guessed it, an empty trap. They sure make it look easy on the deadliest catch tv show! While we were at anchor last night, the sky was full of stars, and they were so bright, one could almost read in the cockpit. We fell asleep to the sound of wolves howling. Sometimes close and fairly loud, and sometimes distant and very hushed. That sure was neat. I wonder what they were talking about.
This morning, we were up at 0700, and the tide was low. We both could see what we navigated through yesterday afternoon, and congratulated each other on the job that we did. Navigation out was done the same way, retracing the path that was left on the chart plotter. We were safely outside the rocks by 0815, and Scott took the first watch. We expect wind and seas to build all day as we go to the Chatham Straights, on the other side of the Dixon Inlet.
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
Captain Scott's Log ~ October 1st, 3rd, 5th & 6th 2008
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 2:20 PM
Subject: almost gales and wolves
On Mon the guests went to the airport at 10am. Their plane was delayed for
repair and they took off around 8pm. The airport bar bill exceeded their air
tickets. Back on the boat, Jeff and I got laundry done, engine repaired,
refueled, boat cleaned up, refill propane tanks, and re-fix the autopilot.
The weather perfect and Tuesday was clear sunny and beautiful. So we headed
south for Canada. Things changed fast as they do in these parts. By
afternoon the wind was 25 on the nose and big rolling seas were beginning to
break. The weather service gave gale warnings till midnight wed. So I
stopped at Foggy Bay which is fully protected on all sides prepared to spend
wed there as well. Getting in the narrow entrance with the seas breaking on
rocks on both sides was scary but the millpond inside made it worth it. At
sunset a wolf began to howl and for a half hour we could follow his progress
through the woods. In the silence of the night the howls awoke me at
midnight and again at 4 am. Wed morning dawned clear and calm. The weather
service now reported no gale but deteriorating weather so we left ASAP to
try for Prince Rupert. Now, motor sailing across the Dixon Entrance in good
weather.
Sent: Friday, October 03, 2008 3:58 PM
Subject: Inside passage
Pipe Dream got across the Dixon Entrance in nice weather. This is one of the
few places open to the Pacific Ocean. Freighters offshore were reporting
high wind and dropping barometers but we waltzed into Prince Rupert
unscratched. Clearing into Canada was only a phone call. Prince Rupert is a
real town. Unlike Any place we went in Alaska, Prince Rupert is connected to
the rest of the continent by roads. At noon the outside air temp is 52 and
water temp is 50. Still we have the feeling of being south. Thursday we
pushed on into the inside passage--nearly 100 miles of natural channel
taking us further south. The start was easy but by afternoon the Pacific
gale began to push ashore. Even in the channel we had 30 kts with rain on
the nose. There are good anchorages everywhere. So I quit early and
anchored in Kumealon Inlet 53 52n 125 58w. Completely enclosed and
beautiful, But 30 kt gusts would hit us broadside and heel us over while
anchored. Twice this action pulled out our set anchor and we dragged and had
to reset in the rain. 3rd time was a charm and we held for the night. Today
the weather is good again and we are motoring happily south flanked by pine
forests, mountains, and waterfalls
Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2008 1:56 PM
Subject: More inside passage
On Friday we came to Lowe inlet with Verney falls. A must stop and we
anchored 100 feet off the falls so that the current held us in place. We
were going to spend the day and night here, but found the serpent in this
Garden of Eden. There were swarms of small black gnats which at first seemed
only a minor nuisance. Jeff and I found the truth at the same time--they
were vampire gnats and we were forced to flee. On Sat we came to Butedale a
large cannery built in 1909. It was a state of the art glorious place and
now a falling down ruin. Lou is the lone occupant with his dog Bert and Cat
Tiger. The 3 story bunkhouse collapsed last year under 20 ft snows. Bert’s
dad was taken by wolves and Tigers mom was had by eagles. The old power
plant still stands with 2 hydro generators--one still turns but no longer
generates. So this huge piece of machinery turns a small belt on a car
alternator which continuously charges a bank of batteries. Then an inverter
gives him his electricity.
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2008 1:58 PM
Subject: Hurricane
After the Vampire gnats (we are still itching) and Butedale, Pipe Dream
spent a perfect night in Bottleneck Inlet. 2 Australian sailboats we
there--also heading south. Bottleneck had its salmon stream and harbor seal
along with close in high wooded cliffs. Streams of low clouds flowed through
the pines. Sunday we powered down to Bella Bella a large Native American
town--a raw trip with blustery winds and cold rain. LOTS of logs in the
water requiring continuous watch ahead. The Coast Guard now broadcasting storm
warnings (more than 50 kts of wind). So we are holed up at Shearwater Marina
along with all the local fishing boats. Monday morning the CG now calling
for hurricane force winds starting this afternoon. It’s blowing 4 outside
with sunshine (does the coast guard take its cue from Channel 7?). But the
locals are taking it seriously and so are we.
Subject: almost gales and wolves
On Mon the guests went to the airport at 10am. Their plane was delayed for
repair and they took off around 8pm. The airport bar bill exceeded their air
tickets. Back on the boat, Jeff and I got laundry done, engine repaired,
refueled, boat cleaned up, refill propane tanks, and re-fix the autopilot.
The weather perfect and Tuesday was clear sunny and beautiful. So we headed
south for Canada. Things changed fast as they do in these parts. By
afternoon the wind was 25 on the nose and big rolling seas were beginning to
break. The weather service gave gale warnings till midnight wed. So I
stopped at Foggy Bay which is fully protected on all sides prepared to spend
wed there as well. Getting in the narrow entrance with the seas breaking on
rocks on both sides was scary but the millpond inside made it worth it. At
sunset a wolf began to howl and for a half hour we could follow his progress
through the woods. In the silence of the night the howls awoke me at
midnight and again at 4 am. Wed morning dawned clear and calm. The weather
service now reported no gale but deteriorating weather so we left ASAP to
try for Prince Rupert. Now, motor sailing across the Dixon Entrance in good
weather.
Sent: Friday, October 03, 2008 3:58 PM
Subject: Inside passage
Pipe Dream got across the Dixon Entrance in nice weather. This is one of the
few places open to the Pacific Ocean. Freighters offshore were reporting
high wind and dropping barometers but we waltzed into Prince Rupert
unscratched. Clearing into Canada was only a phone call. Prince Rupert is a
real town. Unlike Any place we went in Alaska, Prince Rupert is connected to
the rest of the continent by roads. At noon the outside air temp is 52 and
water temp is 50. Still we have the feeling of being south. Thursday we
pushed on into the inside passage--nearly 100 miles of natural channel
taking us further south. The start was easy but by afternoon the Pacific
gale began to push ashore. Even in the channel we had 30 kts with rain on
the nose. There are good anchorages everywhere. So I quit early and
anchored in Kumealon Inlet 53 52n 125 58w. Completely enclosed and
beautiful, But 30 kt gusts would hit us broadside and heel us over while
anchored. Twice this action pulled out our set anchor and we dragged and had
to reset in the rain. 3rd time was a charm and we held for the night. Today
the weather is good again and we are motoring happily south flanked by pine
forests, mountains, and waterfalls
Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2008 1:56 PM
Subject: More inside passage
On Friday we came to Lowe inlet with Verney falls. A must stop and we
anchored 100 feet off the falls so that the current held us in place. We
were going to spend the day and night here, but found the serpent in this
Garden of Eden. There were swarms of small black gnats which at first seemed
only a minor nuisance. Jeff and I found the truth at the same time--they
were vampire gnats and we were forced to flee. On Sat we came to Butedale a
large cannery built in 1909. It was a state of the art glorious place and
now a falling down ruin. Lou is the lone occupant with his dog Bert and Cat
Tiger. The 3 story bunkhouse collapsed last year under 20 ft snows. Bert’s
dad was taken by wolves and Tigers mom was had by eagles. The old power
plant still stands with 2 hydro generators--one still turns but no longer
generates. So this huge piece of machinery turns a small belt on a car
alternator which continuously charges a bank of batteries. Then an inverter
gives him his electricity.
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2008 1:58 PM
Subject: Hurricane
After the Vampire gnats (we are still itching) and Butedale, Pipe Dream
spent a perfect night in Bottleneck Inlet. 2 Australian sailboats we
there--also heading south. Bottleneck had its salmon stream and harbor seal
along with close in high wooded cliffs. Streams of low clouds flowed through
the pines. Sunday we powered down to Bella Bella a large Native American
town--a raw trip with blustery winds and cold rain. LOTS of logs in the
water requiring continuous watch ahead. The Coast Guard now broadcasting storm
warnings (more than 50 kts of wind). So we are holed up at Shearwater Marina
along with all the local fishing boats. Monday morning the CG now calling
for hurricane force winds starting this afternoon. It’s blowing 4 outside
with sunshine (does the coast guard take its cue from Channel 7?). But the
locals are taking it seriously and so are we.
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Captain Scott's Log ~ Monday, September 29, 2008 11:49 AM & 12:41 PM
Subject: Piper Dream #2
Friday the 26th we left Petersburg and went through the Wrangell narrows
which look dangerous on the chart and guidebook. But it was well marked,
scenic and a piece of cake. Later we were going through the Zimovia Strait
at 9 knots. I noted a suspicious area on the chart plotter and zoomed in and
saw a shallow spot ahead. I yelled to kill the power and turn sharply to
starboard. The helmsman had trouble getting the autopilot off to change
course and we hit hard--our first touch since the Philippians. But we did
not stick and sheepishly proceeded on being more diligent. That night a nice
anchorage at Thoms Place 56 10n 132 08e. Sat the bad weather returned as
we made Ketchikan--the town with cruise ships, totem poles and one stop
light. And a pump out station. Our holding tank is clean.
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 12:41 PM
Subject: Ketchikan
Catch U if I can. Nice 24 hr stop except for wind and rain and had to push
on into a near gale on Sun. The fathometer works however it always reads
0.0ft. The autopilot is intermittent but we know the problem and can fix it.
Ketchikan is the southern most town in Alaska and we needed to be in Prince
Rupert by today (mon) to fly the guests home. We got 30 miles out powering
into 30 kts of wind and heavy rain when an injector blew off its mounting
studs. Very fortunately the engine was shut down before we did any damage
and was in open water. Not many options except to return for repair. We got
back very quickly under sail---downwind with gusts higher. Even luckier in
that a large cruise ship was in and our dock was in her lee. So we are back
safely and a mechanic is scheduled to make a boat call today. Getting Tom,
Ken and the girls out was not easy as the ferries and airlines have already
cut back for the season--but, they fly out to Seattle this afternoon. Jeff
and I will push on alone when engine repaired and weather allows.
Friday the 26th we left Petersburg and went through the Wrangell narrows
which look dangerous on the chart and guidebook. But it was well marked,
scenic and a piece of cake. Later we were going through the Zimovia Strait
at 9 knots. I noted a suspicious area on the chart plotter and zoomed in and
saw a shallow spot ahead. I yelled to kill the power and turn sharply to
starboard. The helmsman had trouble getting the autopilot off to change
course and we hit hard--our first touch since the Philippians. But we did
not stick and sheepishly proceeded on being more diligent. That night a nice
anchorage at Thoms Place 56 10n 132 08e. Sat the bad weather returned as
we made Ketchikan--the town with cruise ships, totem poles and one stop
light. And a pump out station. Our holding tank is clean.
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 12:41 PM
Subject: Ketchikan
Catch U if I can. Nice 24 hr stop except for wind and rain and had to push
on into a near gale on Sun. The fathometer works however it always reads
0.0ft. The autopilot is intermittent but we know the problem and can fix it.
Ketchikan is the southern most town in Alaska and we needed to be in Prince
Rupert by today (mon) to fly the guests home. We got 30 miles out powering
into 30 kts of wind and heavy rain when an injector blew off its mounting
studs. Very fortunately the engine was shut down before we did any damage
and was in open water. Not many options except to return for repair. We got
back very quickly under sail---downwind with gusts higher. Even luckier in
that a large cruise ship was in and our dock was in her lee. So we are back
safely and a mechanic is scheduled to make a boat call today. Getting Tom,
Ken and the girls out was not easy as the ferries and airlines have already
cut back for the season--but, they fly out to Seattle this afternoon. Jeff
and I will push on alone when engine repaired and weather allows.
Captain Scott's Log ~ Sunday, September 28th, 2008
Subject: P Dream
Back on Wed we stopped in Steamboat Bay known for its whales. We saw hundreds. That night we heard animal sounds ashore--a first. Some of the whales also were noisy making a squealing sound when blowing. Thursday morning we were socked in with dense fog. With radar and GPS we felt our way slowly to Petersburg. On entering the harbor we exited the fog bank into bright sunshine. Behind the dense fog lay low on the water while snow covered mountain peaks floated above in the sun. Petersburg is a small Norwegian town and very friendly as is most of Alaska. The young girls were as cute as could be and their mothers looked like Eskimos. Almost all the fishing boats are in and preparing for winter with elaborate tenting.
Our holding tank has overflowed yet again. The new valve made in Turkey failed and the new macerator pump failed also. Jeff earned the big bucks!! Pay him and re plumed the entire head.
Back on Wed we stopped in Steamboat Bay known for its whales. We saw hundreds. That night we heard animal sounds ashore--a first. Some of the whales also were noisy making a squealing sound when blowing. Thursday morning we were socked in with dense fog. With radar and GPS we felt our way slowly to Petersburg. On entering the harbor we exited the fog bank into bright sunshine. Behind the dense fog lay low on the water while snow covered mountain peaks floated above in the sun. Petersburg is a small Norwegian town and very friendly as is most of Alaska. The young girls were as cute as could be and their mothers looked like Eskimos. Almost all the fishing boats are in and preparing for winter with elaborate tenting.
Our holding tank has overflowed yet again. The new valve made in Turkey failed and the new macerator pump failed also. Jeff earned the big bucks!! Pay him and re plumed the entire head.
Jeff's Log ~ Thursday, September 25th, 2008
Reid Cove, Alaska
It has again been many days since I have had a chance to write. I had to give up my cabin for Scott’s brother Tom and his girlfriend Kristin. I am now staying in the salon, and have had no time or space to myself since Sunday. The cruising has been absolutely wonderful, and the scenery has been magnificent. We went up Tracey Arm, and tried to make our way to the main glacier, but could not get through the floating ice. We even launched the dingy, and tried to get through, but it was a little too dangerous, as some of the floating chunks out weighed us by tons, and were surrounded with razor sharp edges that were capable of slitting the tubes on the dink.
We went back to the big boat, and towed the dingy back up to the secondary arm which had been choked with ice earlier. The channel had opened by this time, and we were able to get all the way up with the big boat. The Sawyer Glacier was magnificent and impressive, towering about 300 feet above the water, and dropping small calves pretty routinely. We were very close to it and everyone got some very good photos. I again jumped in the dink with Pat, and we took a few more photos of Pipe Dream. There were a couple of seals in the area, but they would not let us get close enough for pictures.
We began our exit after having hot buttered rum, and enjoying the view a little while longer. When we entered the main arm, there was lots of floating ice, and Scott and I took turns navigating the boat through it. We did lightly bump a couple of smaller pieces, but all in all escaped with no damage. We anchored in Tracey Arm Cove going both in and out of Tracey Arm. Tracey Arm Cove is another beautiful spot, which is why we chose to stay there twice. On the second morning, since the dink was still in the water, Pat and I ventured to shore. We were sharing the cove with another small boat owned by a couple from Juneau. The woman was on shore, playing rock toss with their dog. After a brief chat, we hiked up and over the small ridge to see what was on the other side. What we found was another cove with large pieces of floating ice with the sun reflecting off of them, and beautiful snow capped mountains also illuminated with great sunlight. That is something that we haven’t seen much of. We both posed with a chunk of ice that had been left when the tide dropped.
After getting back in the dingy, and beginning our return to Pipe Dream, I noticed a good sized iceberg not far away. The dingy really needed a good, high speed run,(and so did I) so I opened her up and let her run all the way out to the iceberg. It turned out to be a great move, as we were up close and personal with a great piece of nature. The shapes and color were something to behold. I unfortunately had a full memory chip, so again will have to wait for Pat’s photos. We retuned to the big boat, and shipped the dingy so that we could make good time to Reid Cove.
It has again been many days since I have had a chance to write. I had to give up my cabin for Scott’s brother Tom and his girlfriend Kristin. I am now staying in the salon, and have had no time or space to myself since Sunday. The cruising has been absolutely wonderful, and the scenery has been magnificent. We went up Tracey Arm, and tried to make our way to the main glacier, but could not get through the floating ice. We even launched the dingy, and tried to get through, but it was a little too dangerous, as some of the floating chunks out weighed us by tons, and were surrounded with razor sharp edges that were capable of slitting the tubes on the dink.
We went back to the big boat, and towed the dingy back up to the secondary arm which had been choked with ice earlier. The channel had opened by this time, and we were able to get all the way up with the big boat. The Sawyer Glacier was magnificent and impressive, towering about 300 feet above the water, and dropping small calves pretty routinely. We were very close to it and everyone got some very good photos. I again jumped in the dink with Pat, and we took a few more photos of Pipe Dream. There were a couple of seals in the area, but they would not let us get close enough for pictures.
We began our exit after having hot buttered rum, and enjoying the view a little while longer. When we entered the main arm, there was lots of floating ice, and Scott and I took turns navigating the boat through it. We did lightly bump a couple of smaller pieces, but all in all escaped with no damage. We anchored in Tracey Arm Cove going both in and out of Tracey Arm. Tracey Arm Cove is another beautiful spot, which is why we chose to stay there twice. On the second morning, since the dink was still in the water, Pat and I ventured to shore. We were sharing the cove with another small boat owned by a couple from Juneau. The woman was on shore, playing rock toss with their dog. After a brief chat, we hiked up and over the small ridge to see what was on the other side. What we found was another cove with large pieces of floating ice with the sun reflecting off of them, and beautiful snow capped mountains also illuminated with great sunlight. That is something that we haven’t seen much of. We both posed with a chunk of ice that had been left when the tide dropped.
After getting back in the dingy, and beginning our return to Pipe Dream, I noticed a good sized iceberg not far away. The dingy really needed a good, high speed run,(and so did I) so I opened her up and let her run all the way out to the iceberg. It turned out to be a great move, as we were up close and personal with a great piece of nature. The shapes and color were something to behold. I unfortunately had a full memory chip, so again will have to wait for Pat’s photos. We retuned to the big boat, and shipped the dingy so that we could make good time to Reid Cove.
Captain Scott's Log ~ Wednesday September 24th, 2008 Part 2
Subject: Best Day 2
The ice at the base of the glacier went beyond blue--it was almost purple. On the way out I had planned to stop and hike a side valley. We did stop and the valley was beautiful but it was 300 ft deep just a few feet from the shore. Sunset is changing fast and we needed to get to an anchorage before dark--going at night in this ice is not smart. And we did anchor as the last light was fading. With the improving weather we got a sunset---very rare--and no rain at night, But Cold But Cold. This morning was bright and clear. Great views of the higher mountains all covered with new snow. The paddle wheel witch gives us our speed had broken blades back in Japan. We had suffered with this for months and Tom brought us a new one. So yesterday we had good speed readouts for the first time. The ice however took out the new paddle wheel before it was one day old. Now sailing under main only--downwind towing the dingy--with an SOG of 10.2 kts—reasonable protected water in the Stephens passage--likely to sail on to Petersburg, a Norwegian community.
The ice at the base of the glacier went beyond blue--it was almost purple. On the way out I had planned to stop and hike a side valley. We did stop and the valley was beautiful but it was 300 ft deep just a few feet from the shore. Sunset is changing fast and we needed to get to an anchorage before dark--going at night in this ice is not smart. And we did anchor as the last light was fading. With the improving weather we got a sunset---very rare--and no rain at night, But Cold But Cold. This morning was bright and clear. Great views of the higher mountains all covered with new snow. The paddle wheel witch gives us our speed had broken blades back in Japan. We had suffered with this for months and Tom brought us a new one. So yesterday we had good speed readouts for the first time. The ice however took out the new paddle wheel before it was one day old. Now sailing under main only--downwind towing the dingy--with an SOG of 10.2 kts—reasonable protected water in the Stephens passage--likely to sail on to Petersburg, a Norwegian community.
Captain Scott's Log ~ Wednesday, September 24th, 2008
Subject: Best Day Ever
From the size of the icebergs, many larger than the boat, we should have
guessed what the Sawyyer would be like 25 miles up the fjord. We had
clearing weather from last night’s rain and could see new snow on the
surrounding mountains. A few miles into the fjord the side walls rose
vertically 2000 feet. The mountain peaks just beyond were 5000feet. Water
runoff from the mountains spewed over the fjord rim creating hundreds of
2000 ft waterfalls. Each little side canyon was the remains of the old
glacier with its U shaped valley and polished rock walls. For 25 miles we
marveled at the scenery and dodged icebergs. One small sightseeing boat
passed us and went to the face of the So Sawyer Glacier. 1 1/2 mile from
there was as far as we could go as the ice was so thick. The sightseeing
boat was a dot against the 400 ft high ice edge. As Pipe Dream could go no
further, the dingy was put in and a party of 5 tried to push through. The
fjord is 1200 ft deep but the dingy would beach it self on ice flows and made
little progress. An inflatable in a frozen ice field with the glacier calving
monster bergs was pretty stupid--a fact which finally dawned on us and we
gave up. So we tried the North Sawyer and made it through to the face of the
glacier. Its 400 ft face was leaning out in several places and there were
frequent loud cracks. Seals swam nearby and the boat was photographed from the
dingy. Stand by for part 2
From the size of the icebergs, many larger than the boat, we should have
guessed what the Sawyyer would be like 25 miles up the fjord. We had
clearing weather from last night’s rain and could see new snow on the
surrounding mountains. A few miles into the fjord the side walls rose
vertically 2000 feet. The mountain peaks just beyond were 5000feet. Water
runoff from the mountains spewed over the fjord rim creating hundreds of
2000 ft waterfalls. Each little side canyon was the remains of the old
glacier with its U shaped valley and polished rock walls. For 25 miles we
marveled at the scenery and dodged icebergs. One small sightseeing boat
passed us and went to the face of the So Sawyer Glacier. 1 1/2 mile from
there was as far as we could go as the ice was so thick. The sightseeing
boat was a dot against the 400 ft high ice edge. As Pipe Dream could go no
further, the dingy was put in and a party of 5 tried to push through. The
fjord is 1200 ft deep but the dingy would beach it self on ice flows and made
little progress. An inflatable in a frozen ice field with the glacier calving
monster bergs was pretty stupid--a fact which finally dawned on us and we
gave up. So we tried the North Sawyer and made it through to the face of the
glacier. Its 400 ft face was leaning out in several places and there were
frequent loud cracks. Seals swam nearby and the boat was photographed from the
dingy. Stand by for part 2
Captain Scott's Log ~ Tuesday, September 23rd, 2008
Subject: Icebergs
After the Humpback display we returned to Jeneau. Tom and Kristin arrived
and went with Gill and Pat on a heliocopter tour of the nearby glacier.
Jeneau was shutting down for the winter--as in boarding up. Still we had 2
good days with some sunshine--very rare for Juneau. Today we left. Going
south. Our first night is in the Tracy Arm and on arrival we were greeted
by icebergs. Really, ice flows bigger than the boat and we are down stream
25 miles from the glaciers which calved them. Also new snow is on the hill
above us---our first of the season. Now snug in a cove in very good weather
(light rain) with the heaters on. Tomorrow up stream as far as the ice will
let us.
After the Humpback display we returned to Jeneau. Tom and Kristin arrived
and went with Gill and Pat on a heliocopter tour of the nearby glacier.
Jeneau was shutting down for the winter--as in boarding up. Still we had 2
good days with some sunshine--very rare for Juneau. Today we left. Going
south. Our first night is in the Tracy Arm and on arrival we were greeted
by icebergs. Really, ice flows bigger than the boat and we are down stream
25 miles from the glaciers which calved them. Also new snow is on the hill
above us---our first of the season. Now snug in a cove in very good weather
(light rain) with the heaters on. Tomorrow up stream as far as the ice will
let us.
Captain Scott's Log ~ Monday, September 22nd, 2008
Subject: Glaciers Bears & Whales
On Wed the weather cleared and we had a 2 day sunny window to see the park. First was the Margerie Glacier "that offers the quintessential tidewater glacier experience". Its 200 foot face was higher than the cruise ship that was there. It was very noisy with frequent cracks, groans and booms--often sounding like thunder. That night we anchored close to the Reid Glacier and the next morning dingied in to hike around it. Gill fell in a glacial stream but pressed on and has a good photo of her in a deep blue ice cavern.
Thursday afternoon we saw the Lamplugh and the John Hopkins Glaciers.
This was our best day in the park as the entire John Hopkins inlet is breathtaking with numerous glaciers. We have some good photos of the boat alongside ice bergs.The Lamplugh was the best with alternating layers of blue ice, white ice, and black ice (no yellow ice) and we ventured closer than was safe to photo the boat. Thursday night the 2 days of good weather ended--rain, mist and fog returned. Fri we made the forced march out of the park and back up Icy Strait. 30 kts of wind on the nose with big seas was no fun. But by dark we got into Coot Bay and docked 100 ft from shore on a float. After sunset 2 Grizzlies walked the beach right by us. Today the weather is better and we are headed to Juneau to pick up Tom and Kristian who have just missed their plane and now will arrive on Sunday. This morning we saw Humpbacks jumping and followed them closely for over an hour.
On Wed the weather cleared and we had a 2 day sunny window to see the park. First was the Margerie Glacier "that offers the quintessential tidewater glacier experience". Its 200 foot face was higher than the cruise ship that was there. It was very noisy with frequent cracks, groans and booms--often sounding like thunder. That night we anchored close to the Reid Glacier and the next morning dingied in to hike around it. Gill fell in a glacial stream but pressed on and has a good photo of her in a deep blue ice cavern.
Thursday afternoon we saw the Lamplugh and the John Hopkins Glaciers.
This was our best day in the park as the entire John Hopkins inlet is breathtaking with numerous glaciers. We have some good photos of the boat alongside ice bergs.The Lamplugh was the best with alternating layers of blue ice, white ice, and black ice (no yellow ice) and we ventured closer than was safe to photo the boat. Thursday night the 2 days of good weather ended--rain, mist and fog returned. Fri we made the forced march out of the park and back up Icy Strait. 30 kts of wind on the nose with big seas was no fun. But by dark we got into Coot Bay and docked 100 ft from shore on a float. After sunset 2 Grizzlies walked the beach right by us. Today the weather is better and we are headed to Juneau to pick up Tom and Kristian who have just missed their plane and now will arrive on Sunday. This morning we saw Humpbacks jumping and followed them closely for over an hour.
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Jeff's Log ~ Friday, September 19th, 2008
Friday, September 19, 2008 Icy Straights, Alaska
We have completed another trip around Glacier Bay National park. We spent more time touring this time and saw lots of beautiful sights. The night before last, we were anchored about a mile from Reed Glacier, and on Thursday morning, I splashed the dingy for the first time since Japan, and we all went to shore to do a little hiking. I made it my mission to walk on top of the glacier. It was quite a hike to get there from the beach we landed on. There was some light climbing and crossing of several streams necessary. Scott and I saw one bear track in the area of a lot of empty mussel shells. Judging from the amount of eaten mussels, I knew we did not have to worry about a hungry bear in the neighborhood!
Gill and Pat took off quickly, wanting to be the first on the glacier. I caught up with them quickly by making my way over the higher ground. They did not think that was the right approach, so I helped them over a couple of streams, and then they went their way, and I went mine. It turned out that I was right. I made it to the top of the dirty part of the glacier, and then it was getting way too slippery. Going up wasn’t the problem, it would have been controlling the speed of descent that was. I had no cleats on my sea boots, and the sun was beginning to shine on the ice making the surface liquefy.
Pat and Gill stayed on the bottom, and made their way into one of the fissures. They were actually in the glacier! Gill slipped while crossing a steam, and got herself soaked, so upon the return to Pipe Dream, the first order of business was starting the generator and turning on the heat, so everyone, and especially Gill could get warmed up. The next thing was getting the mud under control. The dirt and mud from the glacier is called “glacier flour” and believe me, it is just like flour. It gets on everything, and sticks with the slightest amount of moisture. Our boots were covered in it, the back of my jeans were covered in it from when I had to reduce vertical mass on the ice slope, The dingy deck was covered in it, and it was almost spreading to the big boat. Everyone took off their boots in the dink, and got on Pipe Dream in their socks. The soles of the hiking boots were absolutely the worst. My sea boots rinsed right off, and I proceeded to clean hiking boots of the other crew, confining the mess to the area behind the steering wheel. Then it was time to raise the anchor and get under way for the John Hopkins Glacier, which is the one setting off the most calving.
On the way there, we passed the prettiest glacier that we have seen yet. It comes right to the water’s edge, and in the middle has a hole through which a river of water runs. That was spectacular! All around the hole could be seen the layers which make up the glacier. It was like a cross section of time right in front of us.
We continued up the fjord and began encountering lots of floating ice. Rather than risk the waterline paint, we opted to turn around about five miles from the glacier. It was still quite impressive, as it goes from the sea level to about 2,000 feet in altitude. On the way out. I jumped in the dingy which we were towing, and had a Pipe Dream photo shoot using a small iceberg and the glacier with the hole as props. The pictures turned out very well, and Scott was pretty happy with them. It is a little hard to get good steady pictures while on a bouncy little dingy, but I did the best I could. I also had Pat’s camera, and she has some of the better shots on hers because my batteries went dead after a few shots. After pictures, Pat made some wonderful hot buttered rum. It really hit the spot after the chilly picture shoot. I also just had to give the dink a good high speed run, so my face and cheeks were a rosy red.
We proceeded to our anchorage that Scott chose, and it was like target shooting with the anchor. There was an underwater mountain that we had to hit the top of with the anchor. Everything around was hundreds of feet deep, and our target was sixty feet. The GPS put us right on the spot, and our timing could not have been better. The anchor went down very quickly and set on the first attempt. Sometimes we really look professional. The next day, Scott and I were up early to get a good start on a long day of motoring back to Coot Cove. When we arrived there, we decided to anchor on the other side of the ridge from where we had been previously. When we pulled in close to shore, we noticed a floating dock that is not attached to land. We decided to tie up there, rather than anchor. It turned out to be a very good decision, because for the first time since being in Alaska, we saw two grizzly bears come out of the woods and wander up the shore.
When Scott spotted them, he said to be quiet and come up on deck. Well, the large roasting pans that are usually stored in the oven had been placed right in front of my cabin door. I did not see them, and the resounding crash from kicking the pans accidentally could probably be heard twenty miles away. The bears were not phased, however, and continued their slow stroll as if we weren’t there.
On Saturday morning, it was a return trip to Juneau. Gill is leaving early Monday morning, and Scott’s brother Tom arrives on Sunday night. He and his girlfriend Kristin will be staying at a hotel Sunday, and will move into my cabin on Monday. Tom had our new anchor windlass shipped to the hotel, so I went and picked it up on Sunday morning. Sunday afternoon was spent removing the old and installing the new. That job went relatively smoothly. The hardest part was getting the corrosion broken between the inner and outer pieces on the old windlass. I got a good workout in the process. Sometimes, I wish that I had a helper. The new one is chrome plated, and sure does look a lot nicer than the old brown colored one. Sunday would have been my Dad’s birthday, so I also took a moment to think about him.
Moving out of my cabin was not too bad either, although I found that I have accumulated a lot of stuff in a year. I packed the shorts and light clothing away in storage bags and put them out back in the lazarette. Souvenirs and things I did the same with, and my working clothes I put in my bag and moved to the knee hole under the vanity in Scott’s cabin. I’ll be all right for the eight days that Tom is here.
We have completed another trip around Glacier Bay National park. We spent more time touring this time and saw lots of beautiful sights. The night before last, we were anchored about a mile from Reed Glacier, and on Thursday morning, I splashed the dingy for the first time since Japan, and we all went to shore to do a little hiking. I made it my mission to walk on top of the glacier. It was quite a hike to get there from the beach we landed on. There was some light climbing and crossing of several streams necessary. Scott and I saw one bear track in the area of a lot of empty mussel shells. Judging from the amount of eaten mussels, I knew we did not have to worry about a hungry bear in the neighborhood!
Gill and Pat took off quickly, wanting to be the first on the glacier. I caught up with them quickly by making my way over the higher ground. They did not think that was the right approach, so I helped them over a couple of streams, and then they went their way, and I went mine. It turned out that I was right. I made it to the top of the dirty part of the glacier, and then it was getting way too slippery. Going up wasn’t the problem, it would have been controlling the speed of descent that was. I had no cleats on my sea boots, and the sun was beginning to shine on the ice making the surface liquefy.
Pat and Gill stayed on the bottom, and made their way into one of the fissures. They were actually in the glacier! Gill slipped while crossing a steam, and got herself soaked, so upon the return to Pipe Dream, the first order of business was starting the generator and turning on the heat, so everyone, and especially Gill could get warmed up. The next thing was getting the mud under control. The dirt and mud from the glacier is called “glacier flour” and believe me, it is just like flour. It gets on everything, and sticks with the slightest amount of moisture. Our boots were covered in it, the back of my jeans were covered in it from when I had to reduce vertical mass on the ice slope, The dingy deck was covered in it, and it was almost spreading to the big boat. Everyone took off their boots in the dink, and got on Pipe Dream in their socks. The soles of the hiking boots were absolutely the worst. My sea boots rinsed right off, and I proceeded to clean hiking boots of the other crew, confining the mess to the area behind the steering wheel. Then it was time to raise the anchor and get under way for the John Hopkins Glacier, which is the one setting off the most calving.
On the way there, we passed the prettiest glacier that we have seen yet. It comes right to the water’s edge, and in the middle has a hole through which a river of water runs. That was spectacular! All around the hole could be seen the layers which make up the glacier. It was like a cross section of time right in front of us.
We continued up the fjord and began encountering lots of floating ice. Rather than risk the waterline paint, we opted to turn around about five miles from the glacier. It was still quite impressive, as it goes from the sea level to about 2,000 feet in altitude. On the way out. I jumped in the dingy which we were towing, and had a Pipe Dream photo shoot using a small iceberg and the glacier with the hole as props. The pictures turned out very well, and Scott was pretty happy with them. It is a little hard to get good steady pictures while on a bouncy little dingy, but I did the best I could. I also had Pat’s camera, and she has some of the better shots on hers because my batteries went dead after a few shots. After pictures, Pat made some wonderful hot buttered rum. It really hit the spot after the chilly picture shoot. I also just had to give the dink a good high speed run, so my face and cheeks were a rosy red.
We proceeded to our anchorage that Scott chose, and it was like target shooting with the anchor. There was an underwater mountain that we had to hit the top of with the anchor. Everything around was hundreds of feet deep, and our target was sixty feet. The GPS put us right on the spot, and our timing could not have been better. The anchor went down very quickly and set on the first attempt. Sometimes we really look professional. The next day, Scott and I were up early to get a good start on a long day of motoring back to Coot Cove. When we arrived there, we decided to anchor on the other side of the ridge from where we had been previously. When we pulled in close to shore, we noticed a floating dock that is not attached to land. We decided to tie up there, rather than anchor. It turned out to be a very good decision, because for the first time since being in Alaska, we saw two grizzly bears come out of the woods and wander up the shore.
When Scott spotted them, he said to be quiet and come up on deck. Well, the large roasting pans that are usually stored in the oven had been placed right in front of my cabin door. I did not see them, and the resounding crash from kicking the pans accidentally could probably be heard twenty miles away. The bears were not phased, however, and continued their slow stroll as if we weren’t there.
On Saturday morning, it was a return trip to Juneau. Gill is leaving early Monday morning, and Scott’s brother Tom arrives on Sunday night. He and his girlfriend Kristin will be staying at a hotel Sunday, and will move into my cabin on Monday. Tom had our new anchor windlass shipped to the hotel, so I went and picked it up on Sunday morning. Sunday afternoon was spent removing the old and installing the new. That job went relatively smoothly. The hardest part was getting the corrosion broken between the inner and outer pieces on the old windlass. I got a good workout in the process. Sometimes, I wish that I had a helper. The new one is chrome plated, and sure does look a lot nicer than the old brown colored one. Sunday would have been my Dad’s birthday, so I also took a moment to think about him.
Moving out of my cabin was not too bad either, although I found that I have accumulated a lot of stuff in a year. I packed the shorts and light clothing away in storage bags and put them out back in the lazarette. Souvenirs and things I did the same with, and my working clothes I put in my bag and moved to the knee hole under the vanity in Scott’s cabin. I’ll be all right for the eight days that Tom is here.
Captain Scott's Log ~ Tuesday, September 16th 2008
Subject: Back in Glacier Bay
Monday was a foggy experience so we cut the day short and went into Coot
Bay. 58 15.4n 134 53.3w Its not in our cruising guide but Ken said its our
best anchorage ever. It rained all night but that’s standard and today we set
out early for Glacier Bay. We got some wind and sailed by "Rocky Island"
which had the sea lion colony and had an uneventful sail/motor sail to the
Park. Now stopped in Fingers Bay 58 35n 136 13w one boat length from a
waterfall. Ken says it’s our best anchorage ever. Ken is having a good time.
When last here 5 days ago there was no fall color. Now all the trees are
bright yellow and some look past their prime. It’s raining. Foggy mist flows
through the hillside trees. Our nearby waterfall dominates the water sounds
but 4 other streams are in sight flowing into Fingers Bay. Maybe Ken is
right.
Monday was a foggy experience so we cut the day short and went into Coot
Bay. 58 15.4n 134 53.3w Its not in our cruising guide but Ken said its our
best anchorage ever. It rained all night but that’s standard and today we set
out early for Glacier Bay. We got some wind and sailed by "Rocky Island"
which had the sea lion colony and had an uneventful sail/motor sail to the
Park. Now stopped in Fingers Bay 58 35n 136 13w one boat length from a
waterfall. Ken says it’s our best anchorage ever. Ken is having a good time.
When last here 5 days ago there was no fall color. Now all the trees are
bright yellow and some look past their prime. It’s raining. Foggy mist flows
through the hillside trees. Our nearby waterfall dominates the water sounds
but 4 other streams are in sight flowing into Fingers Bay. Maybe Ken is
right.
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
Captain Scott's Log ~ Monday, September 15th, 2008
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 4:01 PM
Subject: Juneau
After Hoonah we went on to Juneau. Passed a large sea lion colony on a small rocky island. We were very close and doing 9 kts under sail when we discovered each other. Lots of excitement from us as everyone ran for their cameras. More excitement from them with bellowing, snorting, and other sea lion outrage. We passed downwind from them---and won’t again as the smell was enough to gag a maggot. Juneau was quiet on our arrival with no cruise ships in (I'm told it was the only day of the year without them). Juneau sits up an old glacial valley which is narrow with very steep sides. The town has equal proportions of fur shops, jewelry stores, and bars--about a hundred of each. The next morning we awoke to find 6 cruise ships in. Oil money was distributed---3000 in cash to every Alaskan resident including children. The Indians went nuts. Jon got off and Gill flew in. It rains every day in Juneau. Today we left in dense fog and headed down the narrow Gastineau channel. Our old VHF died and Tom got us a new one Which Gill brought. Jeff worked franticly to install it as we felt our way out with the hand held, GPS and radar. 3 cruise ships came in past us. Lot’s of chatter on the radio--Fog horns echoing up and down the ravine. The cruise ships materializing out of the mist very close aboard---a puckering experience for a Florida boy.
Subject: Juneau
After Hoonah we went on to Juneau. Passed a large sea lion colony on a small rocky island. We were very close and doing 9 kts under sail when we discovered each other. Lots of excitement from us as everyone ran for their cameras. More excitement from them with bellowing, snorting, and other sea lion outrage. We passed downwind from them---and won’t again as the smell was enough to gag a maggot. Juneau was quiet on our arrival with no cruise ships in (I'm told it was the only day of the year without them). Juneau sits up an old glacial valley which is narrow with very steep sides. The town has equal proportions of fur shops, jewelry stores, and bars--about a hundred of each. The next morning we awoke to find 6 cruise ships in. Oil money was distributed---3000 in cash to every Alaskan resident including children. The Indians went nuts. Jon got off and Gill flew in. It rains every day in Juneau. Today we left in dense fog and headed down the narrow Gastineau channel. Our old VHF died and Tom got us a new one Which Gill brought. Jeff worked franticly to install it as we felt our way out with the hand held, GPS and radar. 3 cruise ships came in past us. Lot’s of chatter on the radio--Fog horns echoing up and down the ravine. The cruise ships materializing out of the mist very close aboard---a puckering experience for a Florida boy.
Jeff's Log ~ Saturday, September 13th, 2008
Saturday September 13, 2008
I just realized that I had forgotten to write about Elfin Cove, and that would have left out what is possibly the neatest small town in America. The whole town is built around a boardwalk system that is their highway. One section had the roots of the trees exposed, and I could see the way the roots anchor the trees to the rock. The government maintains it and all of the docks. Everybody in town knows everybody else. Of course, the main occupation is fishing, so every life in the area is involved in fishing one way or another. We refueled upon arrival at a very solid floating dock. We had to wait for a little while because the girl working there had just washed her hair, and it had to get rinsed and dried.
After fueling, we moved over to the transient dock, and rafted up on a fish boat. The owner’s name was Geoff, and he was quite a quiet, nice guy. One of the other boats down the dock gave us a beautiful Coho salmon as a welcome gift. Geoff filleted it for me, which was very nice of him. I gave him a few beers for his effort. I walked all the way around town on the boardwalk, and stopped at the general store. The shopkeeper’s name is Joanne, and she told me in conversation that she was fifty six years old. I couldn’t believe it! She looked to be in her late thirties. She said she looked so young because of the Allute heritage, and the fact that she never spends any time in the sun. I made my purchases and returned to the boat with a rare treat, ice cream. I spent the rest of the time before dinner chatting with the neighbor, Geoff, and enjoyed the warmth of his boat. He has a diesel fired stove that provides warmth as well as cooking. We had a great dinner with the marinated Coho being cooked on the grill by yours truly, and Pat made garlic mashed potatoes. After dinner and ice cream, we watched some more two and a half men, and retired.
Enroute to Juneau, Alaska
Yesterday was a cold, miserable, rainy day and we made our way to Hoonah, Alaska. It is a neat looking town as the approach is made from sea. An old cannery is the first thing that you see, and it has been restored and made into a visitor’s cultural center where the native Indians do a show and sell tribal things for the cruise ship passengers. Unfortunately, I was not able to get pictures because of no life in camera batteries, but I will try to get some e-mailed to me. Sorry about that. We tied up on the municipal dock, and I went to register as usual. The ranger’s name was Paul; and he was very helpful with getting necessary phone numbers.
There were two choices for dinner. One was a pizza and deli type place, the other was a lodge about a mile away. The deli had no alcohol, the lodge of course did. Well, you can probably guess where we had dinner. The taxi to the lodge is charged by the person. It is five dollars for the first person, and four dollars for each additional. The crew thought that that was outrageous, but we took the taxi to the lodge anyway, as it was raining. The special was barbequed ribs, and we all had that. Food was OK, too salty for my taste, though. After dinner, the crew all walked back to the boat, and Scott took the cab. The driver beeped his horn as they passed.
I was glad for the walk, as that was the only way I would see any of the town. Jon and I kept going past the boat to see what “downtown” was like. It is a very tiny town, and it did not take very long at all to walk the length of it. All of the stores were closed, as it was after 1700. Most of the housing is either mobile homes, or manufactured housing. There were a few very nice homes though. We returned to the boat and the hearts championship was retained by Jon. Then it was lights out, so that we would be fresh and ready for the trip to Juneau.
This morning was coffee as usual, with the lines being thrown at 0800. On the way out of the harbor area, we were met by a couple of playful seals who were cruising by us looking for their breakfast. It was a very quick passing, as they were going the opposite direction. At about 1030, we are actually under sail, and just passed a small island filled with sea lions, the odor as we passed was pretty bad. We did not stop for pictures because we were sailing rather quickly on a brisk southeast wind.
I just realized that I had forgotten to write about Elfin Cove, and that would have left out what is possibly the neatest small town in America. The whole town is built around a boardwalk system that is their highway. One section had the roots of the trees exposed, and I could see the way the roots anchor the trees to the rock. The government maintains it and all of the docks. Everybody in town knows everybody else. Of course, the main occupation is fishing, so every life in the area is involved in fishing one way or another. We refueled upon arrival at a very solid floating dock. We had to wait for a little while because the girl working there had just washed her hair, and it had to get rinsed and dried.
After fueling, we moved over to the transient dock, and rafted up on a fish boat. The owner’s name was Geoff, and he was quite a quiet, nice guy. One of the other boats down the dock gave us a beautiful Coho salmon as a welcome gift. Geoff filleted it for me, which was very nice of him. I gave him a few beers for his effort. I walked all the way around town on the boardwalk, and stopped at the general store. The shopkeeper’s name is Joanne, and she told me in conversation that she was fifty six years old. I couldn’t believe it! She looked to be in her late thirties. She said she looked so young because of the Allute heritage, and the fact that she never spends any time in the sun. I made my purchases and returned to the boat with a rare treat, ice cream. I spent the rest of the time before dinner chatting with the neighbor, Geoff, and enjoyed the warmth of his boat. He has a diesel fired stove that provides warmth as well as cooking. We had a great dinner with the marinated Coho being cooked on the grill by yours truly, and Pat made garlic mashed potatoes. After dinner and ice cream, we watched some more two and a half men, and retired.
Enroute to Juneau, Alaska
Yesterday was a cold, miserable, rainy day and we made our way to Hoonah, Alaska. It is a neat looking town as the approach is made from sea. An old cannery is the first thing that you see, and it has been restored and made into a visitor’s cultural center where the native Indians do a show and sell tribal things for the cruise ship passengers. Unfortunately, I was not able to get pictures because of no life in camera batteries, but I will try to get some e-mailed to me. Sorry about that. We tied up on the municipal dock, and I went to register as usual. The ranger’s name was Paul; and he was very helpful with getting necessary phone numbers.
There were two choices for dinner. One was a pizza and deli type place, the other was a lodge about a mile away. The deli had no alcohol, the lodge of course did. Well, you can probably guess where we had dinner. The taxi to the lodge is charged by the person. It is five dollars for the first person, and four dollars for each additional. The crew thought that that was outrageous, but we took the taxi to the lodge anyway, as it was raining. The special was barbequed ribs, and we all had that. Food was OK, too salty for my taste, though. After dinner, the crew all walked back to the boat, and Scott took the cab. The driver beeped his horn as they passed.
I was glad for the walk, as that was the only way I would see any of the town. Jon and I kept going past the boat to see what “downtown” was like. It is a very tiny town, and it did not take very long at all to walk the length of it. All of the stores were closed, as it was after 1700. Most of the housing is either mobile homes, or manufactured housing. There were a few very nice homes though. We returned to the boat and the hearts championship was retained by Jon. Then it was lights out, so that we would be fresh and ready for the trip to Juneau.
This morning was coffee as usual, with the lines being thrown at 0800. On the way out of the harbor area, we were met by a couple of playful seals who were cruising by us looking for their breakfast. It was a very quick passing, as they were going the opposite direction. At about 1030, we are actually under sail, and just passed a small island filled with sea lions, the odor as we passed was pretty bad. We did not stop for pictures because we were sailing rather quickly on a brisk southeast wind.
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