Boy was I wrong about not needing fowl weather gear! The first thing that happened after going on watch was a large wave that broke just as we approached it and I got completely soaked. The wind was blowing hard enough that I dried out quickly and I put my jacket on to stay warm. We arrived in the dark and navigated the entrance to the port of Ishigaki like the professionals we are paid to be. There are many breakwaters that we had to work our way around without a detailed chart. Tracy was down below trying to communicate on the radio while Scott, Mark and I picked our way through the maze of lights, anchored ships, and barges, as well as a dredge in the darkness. It all worked out, and we ended up tying up to a breakwater next to the Japan Coast Guard station. We spent the night there and everyone slept very well.
This morning, we had to get up early to put the boat where she needed to go. The wind had us pinned on the sea wall, there was a boat in front and a raft behind, and springing the bow out would not quite work. We launched the dink, and used it as a tug boat to get the bow clear of the boat ahead. We then proceeded to the yacht marina area and shortly after getting tied up, were met with a barrage of officials. Immigration came with two men. Quarantine officer had to come on board first. After he cleared us, immigration boarded. Customs came with eight men; coast guard came with six men. Vegetation quarantine boarded and told us to keep whatever fruit and vegetables we had on board to ourselves. Immigration took us in two carloads to be photographed and fingerprinted. It was a whirlwind of activity.
Scott had arranged to meet a fellow by the name of Mike who is from Texas but is a permanent resident here. Mike gave us some basic knowledge to help us get started. He gave us a map of the city with some places of interest marked and labeled. Then we were off to the post office which has the only English ATM’s in the city. The machines will only give you 10,000 yen, about a hundred dollars. It is now Friday, and I have found out that 10,000 yen doesn’t go very far. Things here are definitely more expensive than the previous countries. Laundry was the next item of importance, because Manila was the last time it got done. There was lots and lots. When we got to the laundry place, the girl was surprised by how much we had. I was surprised with how much it cost. 364,000 yen! I had to give her a down payment because I did not have enough money.
Mike recommended a fellow sailor’s restaurant and bar as a good place to go, so we went there for lunch and introduced ourselves. His name is Cury, and his wife is Fusi. Their place is very cute, with lots of nick-nacs sitting on the bar. Mark and I really like the people and the place, so we stayed out very late last night and had a good time with the native crowd. There was a singer from Tokyo who was visiting Cury and she sang a couple of songs for us. We sat around with her and her girlfriends, and they asked us questions nonstop. Cury kept mixing up what we called “dangerous drinks” made from some rice liquor. Cury has been a big help to us, and called in some friends that have been sailing around Japan for years to help us pick out safe anchorages along our path in case they are needed.
I took Scott’s computer and re-downloaded the sky mate software while I was there. The evening’s fun ended at about 2:30AM. Cury called a couple of cabs, and we all went home happy. This morning, Scott, Tracey and Renon went on the ferry to a nearby island for some sight-seeing, so Mark and I could sleep in a bit. He’s still sawing logs, but I am wide awake, bright eyed and bushy-tailed. I am going to try to find a working telephone.
Monday, May 19, 2008
Jeff's Log ~ Tuesday, May 13, 2008 Close to our day’s destination Ishagaki Island, Japan
Since leaving the anchorage early Monday morning, we have been battling g wind and waves on the nose. We kept a reefed mainsail up for most of the trip, so that the boat could pound into the waves a little better. The second batten pocket began separating from the sail, so we were forced to drive off the wind a bit to keep the sail a little fuller. That added quite a few hours to our trip. Renon doesn’t handle pitching decks and flying water very well, so we were short handed on the watch rotation. That meant four on and four off. None of us have really slept because of the heavy seas. We have all managed an hour here and there.
Our E.T.A. is 8:30PM. It is now 4PM, and I am writing this because it’s still hard to sleep. Tonight we will be snug in a marina, and I can hardly wait. I do love sailing, but motor sailing into headwinds and big waves is not really sailing, it’s part of the power cruising thing. We are getting to the point when there is a schedule to be followed due to people coming and going.
After all of that pounding, there are just a couple of leaks in this submarine. The large port light over the galley is leaking, and the small hatch in Scott’s head is leaking. The hatch routinely gets caught with jib sheets while tacking, so that one doesn’t surprise me. Job security is what I call it! The dodger, which is a heavy canvas structure with plastic windows, certainly did its job the last couple of days keeping the waves out of the cockpit. I wore my full fowl weather suit last night to make sure I stayed warm and dry. It was the first time that it was cool enough outside to wear it, and I sure am glad I had it because a couple of waves came over the dodger. I would have been soaked and cold without it.
The auto-pilot did the steering all night; I just kept adjusting the course as the wind oscillated. The watches feel like they keep getting longer and longer though. Last one of this leg is coming up, and the seas have moderated so no need for fowlies.
Our E.T.A. is 8:30PM. It is now 4PM, and I am writing this because it’s still hard to sleep. Tonight we will be snug in a marina, and I can hardly wait. I do love sailing, but motor sailing into headwinds and big waves is not really sailing, it’s part of the power cruising thing. We are getting to the point when there is a schedule to be followed due to people coming and going.
After all of that pounding, there are just a couple of leaks in this submarine. The large port light over the galley is leaking, and the small hatch in Scott’s head is leaking. The hatch routinely gets caught with jib sheets while tacking, so that one doesn’t surprise me. Job security is what I call it! The dodger, which is a heavy canvas structure with plastic windows, certainly did its job the last couple of days keeping the waves out of the cockpit. I wore my full fowl weather suit last night to make sure I stayed warm and dry. It was the first time that it was cool enough outside to wear it, and I sure am glad I had it because a couple of waves came over the dodger. I would have been soaked and cold without it.
The auto-pilot did the steering all night; I just kept adjusting the course as the wind oscillated. The watches feel like they keep getting longer and longer though. Last one of this leg is coming up, and the seas have moderated so no need for fowlies.
Jeff's Log ~ Sunday, May 11, 2008. 22 02.55N 120 41.58E , Hou-Wan-Tzu, Taiwan
We are anchored in a mostly sheltered cove waiting for the wind to get back to reasonable levels. Yesterday, as we were approaching the south end of Taiwan, the winds built and built. We spent all night and day here watching the wind speeds pretty constantly over thirty knots. Actually for me, it was a welcomed day of rest, and I did sleep a lot of the day away. It seemed like every time I woke up, it was time to eat. Renon made us grilled cheese sandwiches with tomato and bacon for breakfast, some potato and corn chowder with a salad for lunch and delicious, spicy chili for dinner.
Tomorrow, if wind and seas cooperate, Scott wants anchor up at 4am. We want to be at the next stop before dark. I am enjoying Tracy and Renon a lot. Renon has such a great attitude, and Tracy has lots of fun stories that he shares. There is hardly a time when we are not chuckling whenever he is around.
Today is Mother’s Day, So A special HIDEEHO and thanks for all of you wonderful Mothers!!!! Especially my own Mom, I think of her often and love her dearly.
I did fix the leak at the high pressure pump for the water maker this morning, and it is working well again. This boat loves me, that problem sure could have been a lot worse. The hardest part was getting my body into the small space under the cockpit to do the repair. Thank goodness my Dad was a printer and sort of taught me how to work looking in a mirror. It’s sort of like setting type, as it is all backwards.
The only other thing that I accomplished today was cleaning the salon floor after dinner. I let it go for about four days, and it took some extra elbow grease to shine it up. Now I am going to call it an early night as 3:30 will be here sooner than I want. I hope that tomorrow’s weather will give us fair sailing.
Tomorrow, if wind and seas cooperate, Scott wants anchor up at 4am. We want to be at the next stop before dark. I am enjoying Tracy and Renon a lot. Renon has such a great attitude, and Tracy has lots of fun stories that he shares. There is hardly a time when we are not chuckling whenever he is around.
Today is Mother’s Day, So A special HIDEEHO and thanks for all of you wonderful Mothers!!!! Especially my own Mom, I think of her often and love her dearly.
I did fix the leak at the high pressure pump for the water maker this morning, and it is working well again. This boat loves me, that problem sure could have been a lot worse. The hardest part was getting my body into the small space under the cockpit to do the repair. Thank goodness my Dad was a printer and sort of taught me how to work looking in a mirror. It’s sort of like setting type, as it is all backwards.
The only other thing that I accomplished today was cleaning the salon floor after dinner. I let it go for about four days, and it took some extra elbow grease to shine it up. Now I am going to call it an early night as 3:30 will be here sooner than I want. I hope that tomorrow’s weather will give us fair sailing.
Jeff's Log ~ Friday, May 9, 2008.…Port of Kaohsiung, Taiwan
Greetings from Taiwan! We arrived yesterday, and are now tied to a floating dock right across a canal from the ferry docks. I washed the boat and did some polishing, etc. while everyone else went exploring. I have to do the cleaning maintenance when I have the chance, and the water pressure here is good. Pipe Dream enjoyed the bath, and now is back to her gorgeous self. The crew of the neighboring power boat came over and said hello. The captain’s name sounded close to Jamie, so that is what I call him. English is not spoken very much here, so communicating gets to be fairly taxing. After my chores were completed, they invited me over for some beer and snacks. One of the snacks was some duck. I could tell because the whole duck head was in the bag with the chopped up meat. It was pretty tasty, but I did not eat the head.
We were sitting on the fly bridge with the captain, and an electrician that was working on one of the starter motors. Jamie kept going below and coming back with more and more food. I was a little relieved when the crew of Pipe Dream returned as that let me leave gracefully. I was pretty tired from trying to communicate.
Today fuel is my top priority, and trying to get Scott’s Sky mate updated is the next. He has had continuing problems with it, and that makes us all crazy.
The mate on the boat next door was around this morning, so I tried to find out where and how to get fuel. I pointed to their diesel fill and acted out putting fuel in. It was like playing charades. Eventually, I got the point across, and he drew me a picture of a fuel can. Then he called a friend that speaks some English. His fiend told me that he would come at noon to help. When he got there, He introduced himself as Peter; he has turned into my Taiwan connection. He has taught himself English from watching movies. He told us about the fuel dock on the other side of the harbor, and said he would go with us so that language would not be a hindrance. He then asked what else we needed, and took Mark and I to Costco, yes, Costco, for our provisioning. The Costco here in Taiwan was the biggest I have seen. It has a five story parking garage, and three floors of shopping. He was a pretty good tour guide too and showed us around a bit as he drove.
After getting the groceries back to the boat, I took Scott’s computer to Peter’s office/home and plugged in to the internet to download the improved Sky mate software. While that was downloading, we went to lunch at a small, family run restaurant down the street. I tried to pay, but Peter literally elbowed me out of the way so he could pay. I’ll never go hungry in Asian countries. I really like the food. I am doing better with chopsticks too.
The download had taken too long, and the computer had timed out, so I cancelled the power management program and started downloading again. Peter had a date, so I left with the download still running. I went to dinner with everyone at the tallest building in the city. The restaurant was on the thirty eighth floor of eighty six. The view of the city from the restaurant windows was spectacular, and it seemed like the world was in slow motion. There was a Ferris wheel with incredible lighting that kept changing colors and patterns about a mile from the restaurant. It was like Beny Hana, with the chef cooking right in front of us. I had duck, and he prepared it perfectly. We went to a different room for desert and coffee and there was a player piano making nice music as we finished our dinner.
We went back to the boat, and shortly were joined by Peter and his girlfriend Sophie, and the owner of another sailboat named Michael, and his wife Wendy. Peter brought us a case of beer for the boat, and we had a nice little party aboard Pipe Dream. Scott loves to show off his boat as much as I do, and we all were talking and doing a lot of laughing. After having a great evening, we all said good night and made a date for fueling in the morning with our new friends.
Today is Saturday May 10. At 9:00, I went down to pick up Scott’s computer. Peter and Sophie greeted me warmly and offered me breakfast. I had eaten already, so I did decline. The computer was ready to go, and I sat down to send off a quick E-mail to Clara to let her know I was OK. Peter went and picked up some navigation charts which Scott had ordered the day before while I did that. Then we walked back to the boat and were met by three young boys just having a ball on Pipe Dream. Michael and Wendy and their sons went to get fuel too. We sure had a boatful! It was fun to have all of these people with us just to get fuel. After fueling was complete, we had to check out at the port security dock. All of our friends waited with us until immigration came and cleared us out. There were lots of pictures taken by our guests and by the coast guard men who were around, both on and off duty. Pipe Dream was a big hit in Taiwan.
After saying goodbye with handshakes and hugs, we pulled away from the sea wall, raised the mainsail, and we hot-dogged it out of the harbor sailing fast on a brisk wind. It was quite cool to leave like that I think, because everyone could see how spirited the boat is.
The wind came and went for a lot of the afternoon, and then at about 4:30 it really came. I came on watch at 4, and the air was light and fluky. By4:30, it was honking at about 25 knots. At 5, it was 35 knots, and I got a new course to steer for an anchorage. That is where we are now, and we have seen gusts up to 50 knots. The water maker has a leak on the high pressure pump, so we ran it long enough to fill both tanks in case something crumbles tomorrow when I am going try and repair it. We all had a good dinner and cocktails and a hot shower, so all is right with the world for tonight.
We were sitting on the fly bridge with the captain, and an electrician that was working on one of the starter motors. Jamie kept going below and coming back with more and more food. I was a little relieved when the crew of Pipe Dream returned as that let me leave gracefully. I was pretty tired from trying to communicate.
Today fuel is my top priority, and trying to get Scott’s Sky mate updated is the next. He has had continuing problems with it, and that makes us all crazy.
The mate on the boat next door was around this morning, so I tried to find out where and how to get fuel. I pointed to their diesel fill and acted out putting fuel in. It was like playing charades. Eventually, I got the point across, and he drew me a picture of a fuel can. Then he called a friend that speaks some English. His fiend told me that he would come at noon to help. When he got there, He introduced himself as Peter; he has turned into my Taiwan connection. He has taught himself English from watching movies. He told us about the fuel dock on the other side of the harbor, and said he would go with us so that language would not be a hindrance. He then asked what else we needed, and took Mark and I to Costco, yes, Costco, for our provisioning. The Costco here in Taiwan was the biggest I have seen. It has a five story parking garage, and three floors of shopping. He was a pretty good tour guide too and showed us around a bit as he drove.
After getting the groceries back to the boat, I took Scott’s computer to Peter’s office/home and plugged in to the internet to download the improved Sky mate software. While that was downloading, we went to lunch at a small, family run restaurant down the street. I tried to pay, but Peter literally elbowed me out of the way so he could pay. I’ll never go hungry in Asian countries. I really like the food. I am doing better with chopsticks too.
The download had taken too long, and the computer had timed out, so I cancelled the power management program and started downloading again. Peter had a date, so I left with the download still running. I went to dinner with everyone at the tallest building in the city. The restaurant was on the thirty eighth floor of eighty six. The view of the city from the restaurant windows was spectacular, and it seemed like the world was in slow motion. There was a Ferris wheel with incredible lighting that kept changing colors and patterns about a mile from the restaurant. It was like Beny Hana, with the chef cooking right in front of us. I had duck, and he prepared it perfectly. We went to a different room for desert and coffee and there was a player piano making nice music as we finished our dinner.
We went back to the boat, and shortly were joined by Peter and his girlfriend Sophie, and the owner of another sailboat named Michael, and his wife Wendy. Peter brought us a case of beer for the boat, and we had a nice little party aboard Pipe Dream. Scott loves to show off his boat as much as I do, and we all were talking and doing a lot of laughing. After having a great evening, we all said good night and made a date for fueling in the morning with our new friends.
Today is Saturday May 10. At 9:00, I went down to pick up Scott’s computer. Peter and Sophie greeted me warmly and offered me breakfast. I had eaten already, so I did decline. The computer was ready to go, and I sat down to send off a quick E-mail to Clara to let her know I was OK. Peter went and picked up some navigation charts which Scott had ordered the day before while I did that. Then we walked back to the boat and were met by three young boys just having a ball on Pipe Dream. Michael and Wendy and their sons went to get fuel too. We sure had a boatful! It was fun to have all of these people with us just to get fuel. After fueling was complete, we had to check out at the port security dock. All of our friends waited with us until immigration came and cleared us out. There were lots of pictures taken by our guests and by the coast guard men who were around, both on and off duty. Pipe Dream was a big hit in Taiwan.
After saying goodbye with handshakes and hugs, we pulled away from the sea wall, raised the mainsail, and we hot-dogged it out of the harbor sailing fast on a brisk wind. It was quite cool to leave like that I think, because everyone could see how spirited the boat is.
The wind came and went for a lot of the afternoon, and then at about 4:30 it really came. I came on watch at 4, and the air was light and fluky. By4:30, it was honking at about 25 knots. At 5, it was 35 knots, and I got a new course to steer for an anchorage. That is where we are now, and we have seen gusts up to 50 knots. The water maker has a leak on the high pressure pump, so we ran it long enough to fill both tanks in case something crumbles tomorrow when I am going try and repair it. We all had a good dinner and cocktails and a hot shower, so all is right with the world for tonight.
Thursday, May 15, 2008
Jeff's Log ~ Wednesday, May 14th, 2008 Ishagaki
Hi all is well. We are in a harbor tied to a very large breakwater. It will be some time before I get a phone, as Japan has their own system, and nothing else works except their equipment. This is our fist stop, but so far I am very impressed with what I see. Feel very secure and safe. Food and beer are good so far. Not cheap here like in the Philippines. I am trying to figure out how to call you.
Right now, at the high speed ferry dock on their computers. The whole crew is here and we are all on the internet. Language here is very difficult. Hardly anyone speaks English. It even took a little while to get computer keyboard into English. Scott’s sky mate is still acting up. It receives, but does not transmit, so don’t worry if you don’t hear anything for days. We are going to stay here until the weather is safe. We have been discussing alternate plans, and have Scott calm and collected. Thanks for the pics of Trinity, she sure is cute.
I am trying to write my log almost everyday, as things happen rather quickly once in a while. Once I am in Osaka, things should settle down a bit, and Ill get someone to get me a phone. There is all kinds of requirements that must be met to get one. Until then, I will E-mail when possible, and call when I can. There are a couple of weather systems that we are keeping under close watch. Right now, we are in Typhoon Alley and must remain vigilant.
Right now, at the high speed ferry dock on their computers. The whole crew is here and we are all on the internet. Language here is very difficult. Hardly anyone speaks English. It even took a little while to get computer keyboard into English. Scott’s sky mate is still acting up. It receives, but does not transmit, so don’t worry if you don’t hear anything for days. We are going to stay here until the weather is safe. We have been discussing alternate plans, and have Scott calm and collected. Thanks for the pics of Trinity, she sure is cute.
I am trying to write my log almost everyday, as things happen rather quickly once in a while. Once I am in Osaka, things should settle down a bit, and Ill get someone to get me a phone. There is all kinds of requirements that must be met to get one. Until then, I will E-mail when possible, and call when I can. There are a couple of weather systems that we are keeping under close watch. Right now, we are in Typhoon Alley and must remain vigilant.
Tuesday, May 13, 2008
Captain Scott's Log ~ Friday, May 9th, 2008
Pipe Dream in Taiwan
We left Batan Island in calm and its volcano dominated the skyline for some time. The Tidal Rips that plagued us in rough weather were in some ways even more spectacular in calm. Jets of white water and breaking waves on a calm sea. The chart showed depths of up to three miles. Two mile high underwater mountains accounted for the Tide Rips even when we were in water a mile deep. At dawn on the eighth, we entered Kaohsiung, Taiwan. We chose this port as it is one of the few with a marina. To our surprise few speak English and no officials had any idea of what to do with us. So clearing in and out - a major hassle. The so called marina is a few pontoons in a park. We are the only foreign yacht here amid five or six local crafts. Security is good and the area is checked frequently by the Coast Guard. They seem to have special training in making large wakes. The theory is that if the yachts are rolling into the docks, then intruders will find it difficult to board! We went to Lotus Lake to see the surrounding ornate Temples and Pagodas, some dated from 1666. They were spectacular enough to compensate for the fact that the lake was drained for repairs. Typhoon Botchoy is turning into a pussycat and will not delay us. The local officials are doing their best to keep us in port and want us to hire an agent. My Skymate has been down for the past two days, and is now at the Doctors. We dined at the eighty-five story Sky Tower Restaurant last evening. The food was good enough that we will go across town again this evening and dine at the same restaurant.
We left Batan Island in calm and its volcano dominated the skyline for some time. The Tidal Rips that plagued us in rough weather were in some ways even more spectacular in calm. Jets of white water and breaking waves on a calm sea. The chart showed depths of up to three miles. Two mile high underwater mountains accounted for the Tide Rips even when we were in water a mile deep. At dawn on the eighth, we entered Kaohsiung, Taiwan. We chose this port as it is one of the few with a marina. To our surprise few speak English and no officials had any idea of what to do with us. So clearing in and out - a major hassle. The so called marina is a few pontoons in a park. We are the only foreign yacht here amid five or six local crafts. Security is good and the area is checked frequently by the Coast Guard. They seem to have special training in making large wakes. The theory is that if the yachts are rolling into the docks, then intruders will find it difficult to board! We went to Lotus Lake to see the surrounding ornate Temples and Pagodas, some dated from 1666. They were spectacular enough to compensate for the fact that the lake was drained for repairs. Typhoon Botchoy is turning into a pussycat and will not delay us. The local officials are doing their best to keep us in port and want us to hire an agent. My Skymate has been down for the past two days, and is now at the Doctors. We dined at the eighty-five story Sky Tower Restaurant last evening. The food was good enough that we will go across town again this evening and dine at the same restaurant.
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Captain Scott's Log ~ Tuesday, May 6th,2008
7:59 AM
Subject: Batanes
20 27n 121 58e anchored under the small town of Basco and towered over by
the active volcano Mt Iraya. Gorgeous! Thank you to the many who sent me
Happy B-day wishes. Yesterday was a poster child for sailing. 15 kts out of
the west had us on a beam reach in smooth water all day. 8 kts boat speed
and a 2 kt kick in current gave us a SOG of 10 kts all day. Then at dinner
we were hit by the first squall. The wind came ahead and increased to 30. So
we spent the next 8 hrs powering into big confused seas. The seas were so
bad because of tidal rips off the north of Luzon. Full foul weather gear and it’s
not safe on deck. Tide changed and now 6 kts boat speed with 2 kts foul
current for a SOG of 4 kts. One miserable night! But we are here and as
anyone who sails knows---it’s really good when you quit. Again it’s very pretty
here. We watched cattle loaded onto an island freighter by crane---one
kicking mooing cow at a time. Dinner ashore for the boys and tomorrow we are
bound for Taiwan.
Subject: Batanes
20 27n 121 58e anchored under the small town of Basco and towered over by
the active volcano Mt Iraya. Gorgeous! Thank you to the many who sent me
Happy B-day wishes. Yesterday was a poster child for sailing. 15 kts out of
the west had us on a beam reach in smooth water all day. 8 kts boat speed
and a 2 kt kick in current gave us a SOG of 10 kts all day. Then at dinner
we were hit by the first squall. The wind came ahead and increased to 30. So
we spent the next 8 hrs powering into big confused seas. The seas were so
bad because of tidal rips off the north of Luzon. Full foul weather gear and it’s
not safe on deck. Tide changed and now 6 kts boat speed with 2 kts foul
current for a SOG of 4 kts. One miserable night! But we are here and as
anyone who sails knows---it’s really good when you quit. Again it’s very pretty
here. We watched cattle loaded onto an island freighter by crane---one
kicking mooing cow at a time. Dinner ashore for the boys and tomorrow we are
bound for Taiwan.
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