Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 4:47 PM
Subject: Kodiac
The last day at sea was spent powering into the wind and running along the south coast of Kodiak Island. The wind lightened some and the sun stayed out so it was a pretty day. There are high snow streaked mountains and nearly no civilization visible. Except for a rocket launching facility!!. There is a beach here called fossil breach. Apparently the natural land erosion leaves hardened fossils littered on the beach. We began to get weather reports that said the weather would deteriorate rapidly--it did, but we made Kodiak OK. Forecast for the next 2 days calls for a gale from the NE (directly from Seward) and heavy rain. Both Neil and Dave have a plane to catch in Anchorage--so, they are going to fly out of Kodiak. Jeff and I will wait for perfect weather to get to Seward only 180 miles away. I meet Gill in Anchorage for a 6 day trip into Denali Park. So this will be my last mail for a couple of weeks. Its raining and blowing now but the town of Kodiak looks like its going to be fun.
Wednesday, August 13, 2008
Captain Scott's Log ~ Sunday, August 10th, 2008
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 10:52 AM
Subject: Dutch Harbor 2
The people here made this stop memorable. It is clear that there is little to do and so most made as much as they could out of what interested them. Bill pumped our gas on arrival and later that night picked us up on the road as we walked to diner. The next day he came by Pipe Dream in a 17 ft aluminum skiff with an ancient outboard, a fishing friend, and a dog. He was drunk as was his friend but his dog didn’t seem to mind. He also had a boatload of fish. He gave us several and asked if he could see the boat. After looking around he said "I got to get a better boat". Then after reflection he said "No, If I did my wife would want to go fishing with me." He had a real gift of story telling and as we were the only people on the island that had not heard them....We heard about the world record 650 lb Halibut that he could not get in the boat, climbing volcanoes, fishing, hunting fox (these are called the Fox Islands), his wife’s lack of cooking skills and winter in Dutch Harbor. "It blows real hard. We get 160 mile an hour winds. You call them hurricanes and we call them Tuesday." Bill also gave us 3 bottles of homemade wild berry jam. He cans 200 bottles every year. It must take a long time to pick that many berries, I asked. "Not that much to do around here"
Subject: Dutch Harbor 2
The people here made this stop memorable. It is clear that there is little to do and so most made as much as they could out of what interested them. Bill pumped our gas on arrival and later that night picked us up on the road as we walked to diner. The next day he came by Pipe Dream in a 17 ft aluminum skiff with an ancient outboard, a fishing friend, and a dog. He was drunk as was his friend but his dog didn’t seem to mind. He also had a boatload of fish. He gave us several and asked if he could see the boat. After looking around he said "I got to get a better boat". Then after reflection he said "No, If I did my wife would want to go fishing with me." He had a real gift of story telling and as we were the only people on the island that had not heard them....We heard about the world record 650 lb Halibut that he could not get in the boat, climbing volcanoes, fishing, hunting fox (these are called the Fox Islands), his wife’s lack of cooking skills and winter in Dutch Harbor. "It blows real hard. We get 160 mile an hour winds. You call them hurricanes and we call them Tuesday." Bill also gave us 3 bottles of homemade wild berry jam. He cans 200 bottles every year. It must take a long time to pick that many berries, I asked. "Not that much to do around here"
Captain Scotts Log ~ Monday, August 11th, 2008
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 3:39 AM
Subject: Toward Kodiak
The wind was strong out of the NE so we stayed in Dutch Harbor an extra day. Good call but wish we had one more day to wait as the wind was still on the nose when we left. Commanders weather promised it would slacken and back to the NW--it didn't. The passes between the Pacific and the Bering Sea are noted for rough water--it was. So we settled in for the heavy wind and sea beat--crash, bang. By mid day the boat was taking on water at an alarming rate--drop all sail, turn down wind to access the forepeak, pump the boat dry, fix some of the leaks in the bow, and start again--crash bang. To preserve sanity and the boat I decided to motersail at a slower speed. With reefed main only the boat was more upright and dryer. And at the slower speed of 7 kts the crashing and banging was reduced. The next morning the wind quit, skies cleared, and our sense of humor returned. The mid portion of this leg was gorgeous. I actually saw the sun rise and set for the first time since leaving Japan. Stars and moon on a flat sea--wow. We were now up under the Alaskan Peninsula. It the clear air and with setting sun behind you could see 3 volcano's 75 miles away. I have never seen anything so neat. The tallest 2 were 8000 and 9000 feet high and nearly vertical. The top half was snow capped and one was smoking heavily. The slopes on these monsters had to be 70 degrees--perfect cones. Today, Monday, the wind has returned and again on our nose. The barometer is dropping and we are hoping to make landfall before dark.
Subject: Toward Kodiak
The wind was strong out of the NE so we stayed in Dutch Harbor an extra day. Good call but wish we had one more day to wait as the wind was still on the nose when we left. Commanders weather promised it would slacken and back to the NW--it didn't. The passes between the Pacific and the Bering Sea are noted for rough water--it was. So we settled in for the heavy wind and sea beat--crash, bang. By mid day the boat was taking on water at an alarming rate--drop all sail, turn down wind to access the forepeak, pump the boat dry, fix some of the leaks in the bow, and start again--crash bang. To preserve sanity and the boat I decided to motersail at a slower speed. With reefed main only the boat was more upright and dryer. And at the slower speed of 7 kts the crashing and banging was reduced. The next morning the wind quit, skies cleared, and our sense of humor returned. The mid portion of this leg was gorgeous. I actually saw the sun rise and set for the first time since leaving Japan. Stars and moon on a flat sea--wow. We were now up under the Alaskan Peninsula. It the clear air and with setting sun behind you could see 3 volcano's 75 miles away. I have never seen anything so neat. The tallest 2 were 8000 and 9000 feet high and nearly vertical. The top half was snow capped and one was smoking heavily. The slopes on these monsters had to be 70 degrees--perfect cones. Today, Monday, the wind has returned and again on our nose. The barometer is dropping and we are hoping to make landfall before dark.
Captain Scotts Log ~ Thursday, August 7th, 2008
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 8:11 PM
Subject: Dutch Harbor
The sun rose? Behind a fog bank as we moved slowly to Dutch in the early morning. Then for a minute the fog cleared and we could see the Volcanoes on Unalaska with the sun rising behind them. REAL MAGIC. Later the fog lifted and we could see Umnak behind us with the volcanic plume rising into the stratosphere. We sailed along the severe coast of Unalaska all day and got into Dutch in the afternoon. No customs to clear into the USA as they fly in from Anchorage and the airport has been closed for 3 days with fog. But Port control radioed our info and then drove us around for everything. Drinks at the unisea sports bar, dinner at the Grand Aleutian, shopping and general gossip. Small place with pop of 4000 but wow. Crew hiked up mountain to WW11 bunker-saw old Russian Cathedral--Museum. Boats came by to chat and give us fish and crab. We now have tons of Halibut and Cod and one live King Crab roams the cockpit. Earthquake of 5.2 while having diner--Umnak will be active for awhile. We plan to leave early on the 8th headed NE along the Alaskan Peninsula toward Kodiak Island
Subject: Dutch Harbor
The sun rose? Behind a fog bank as we moved slowly to Dutch in the early morning. Then for a minute the fog cleared and we could see the Volcanoes on Unalaska with the sun rising behind them. REAL MAGIC. Later the fog lifted and we could see Umnak behind us with the volcanic plume rising into the stratosphere. We sailed along the severe coast of Unalaska all day and got into Dutch in the afternoon. No customs to clear into the USA as they fly in from Anchorage and the airport has been closed for 3 days with fog. But Port control radioed our info and then drove us around for everything. Drinks at the unisea sports bar, dinner at the Grand Aleutian, shopping and general gossip. Small place with pop of 4000 but wow. Crew hiked up mountain to WW11 bunker-saw old Russian Cathedral--Museum. Boats came by to chat and give us fish and crab. We now have tons of Halibut and Cod and one live King Crab roams the cockpit. Earthquake of 5.2 while having diner--Umnak will be active for awhile. We plan to leave early on the 8th headed NE along the Alaskan Peninsula toward Kodiak Island
Thursday, August 7, 2008
Captain Scott's Log ~ Wednesday, August 6th, 2008
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 3:04 AM
Subject: Gawn on the Bering Sea
Only 12 hours since my last mail in Umnak Pass and that was only 40 miles ago. With the night which finally settled in around midnight came stronger headwinds and a roaring current against us. To keep from being swept back wards out of the pass the last gallon of diesel was required. But the old girl keeps on ticking. Now the last tank reads empty--I know there is a little there but will need it for docking. With the night also came Real Cold. Three layers of thermals was not enough for the deck and two layers not enough for the bunk--even with the Patagonia down sleeping bag. My Gortex waterproof socks as a third layer feels good in the sea boots. 54 degrees north. The dawn is calm, cold, and foggy. The sea is glassy flat--but, Dutch Harbor is JUST around the corner
Subject: Gawn on the Bering Sea
Only 12 hours since my last mail in Umnak Pass and that was only 40 miles ago. With the night which finally settled in around midnight came stronger headwinds and a roaring current against us. To keep from being swept back wards out of the pass the last gallon of diesel was required. But the old girl keeps on ticking. Now the last tank reads empty--I know there is a little there but will need it for docking. With the night also came Real Cold. Three layers of thermals was not enough for the deck and two layers not enough for the bunk--even with the Patagonia down sleeping bag. My Gortex waterproof socks as a third layer feels good in the sea boots. 54 degrees north. The dawn is calm, cold, and foggy. The sea is glassy flat--but, Dutch Harbor is JUST around the corner
Captain Scott's Log ~ Tuesday, August 5th, 2008
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 6:58 PM
Subject: Umnak Pass
As I write this we are in the pass at sunset with only 90 miles to Dutch Harbor. After 10 days of continuous fog, the wet misty stuff lifted today. We had a sudden view of the snow capped volcanos on the "Islands of Four Mountains". Quite a view for our first landfall. Umnak is an 80 mile long island and we have run beside it most of the day. Its tallest volcano is more than 7000 feet high. But it’s the Okmok Caldera that blew its top 3 weeks ago. We have light ash on the deck but otherwise no evidence of activity. The caldera is 6 to 10 miles across. Great visibility is very cold air but patchy fog is reclaiming the night. Today we found and stopped at a sea lion colony on an offshore island. Lots of noise and bellows from the beach masters. Kelp has floated by us for the past day in massive patches. Some stems as long as the boat and as thick as my arm. The bird life is unbelievable. No bears yet. But its the dozens of volcanoes that rise into
the clouds that stir the imagination.
Subject: Umnak Pass
As I write this we are in the pass at sunset with only 90 miles to Dutch Harbor. After 10 days of continuous fog, the wet misty stuff lifted today. We had a sudden view of the snow capped volcanos on the "Islands of Four Mountains". Quite a view for our first landfall. Umnak is an 80 mile long island and we have run beside it most of the day. Its tallest volcano is more than 7000 feet high. But it’s the Okmok Caldera that blew its top 3 weeks ago. We have light ash on the deck but otherwise no evidence of activity. The caldera is 6 to 10 miles across. Great visibility is very cold air but patchy fog is reclaiming the night. Today we found and stopped at a sea lion colony on an offshore island. Lots of noise and bellows from the beach masters. Kelp has floated by us for the past day in massive patches. Some stems as long as the boat and as thick as my arm. The bird life is unbelievable. No bears yet. But its the dozens of volcanoes that rise into
the clouds that stir the imagination.
Monday, August 4, 2008
Captain Scott's Log ~ Monday, August 4th, 2008
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 2:56 AM
Sat night I wrote in the log "Colder again and thermal long johns welcome. Fog as always but not so wet. The boat has a slight heel in the weak wind and the sound of the engine all too familiar. On deck faint phosphorescence flows by in the swirl of the bow wave but mostly only the glow of the instruments warms the night. The radar shows light rain to leeward but otherwise an empty sea. The promise of the Aleutians will require a few more lonely nights." Sunday the mast head wind indicator quit and Neil was sent to the top to no avail. By afternoon we had a sailing breeze and the chute up. Before dark the wind backed further and increased. Now blowing directly
from Kodiak and why we are headed to Dutch Harbor. But hard on the wind on starboard tack we had reason to worry about the rig with the broken D3. It was out of column and we tried several different configurations. We lived the night with full main with some luffing, 60% rolled up jib, and loosened backstay. I believe if the mast had been aluminum we would have lost it. But its carbon. It blew 20 last night but now it’s a pleasant and safe 13 knot beat. Unlikely to make Umnak Pass and will probably pass close to "The Islands of 4 Mountains" tomorrow. Water temp 52
Sat night I wrote in the log "Colder again and thermal long johns welcome. Fog as always but not so wet. The boat has a slight heel in the weak wind and the sound of the engine all too familiar. On deck faint phosphorescence flows by in the swirl of the bow wave but mostly only the glow of the instruments warms the night. The radar shows light rain to leeward but otherwise an empty sea. The promise of the Aleutians will require a few more lonely nights." Sunday the mast head wind indicator quit and Neil was sent to the top to no avail. By afternoon we had a sailing breeze and the chute up. Before dark the wind backed further and increased. Now blowing directly
from Kodiak and why we are headed to Dutch Harbor. But hard on the wind on starboard tack we had reason to worry about the rig with the broken D3. It was out of column and we tried several different configurations. We lived the night with full main with some luffing, 60% rolled up jib, and loosened backstay. I believe if the mast had been aluminum we would have lost it. But its carbon. It blew 20 last night but now it’s a pleasant and safe 13 knot beat. Unlikely to make Umnak Pass and will probably pass close to "The Islands of 4 Mountains" tomorrow. Water temp 52
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