Thursday, April 3, 2008

Jeff's Log ~ Tuesday, April 1st, 2008

Our visitor from the Indonesian navy told us the weather would be good today. We woke to heavy wind and rain, and our departure was made a little later than planned. The squall blew through in less than an hour, and left behind some good sailing breeze. I took the first watch and had a very nice sail for the first hour and a half. Then the wind dropped off and we began motor sailing with the lumpy seas left over from the storm. The autopilot was swinging about 35 degrees in the confused sea, so I kept driving until my watch ended. Since we have been in the Malaccan Straights, we have seen a lot of logs and even whole trees in the water around us, so constant vigilance is necessary.

I am now relaxing between watches and it is very hot on deck. We are close to the equator and the sun will bake a person very quickly. I am trying to keep my exposure down to minimize the heat factor.

Jeff's Log ~ Monday, March 31, 2008

0700

We already have the anchor up and are resuming the journey down the straights. I did not get any pictures because of the weather when we arrived, and the lack of light when we left. On our way out of the channel, the quaint little fishing village we were anchored in front of, became the suburbs as there was a much larger commercial fishing city around the bend to the south.

As we left the island, the wind freshened and we set sail. Mark took the first watch, so I can relax until 1000. As I came on watch, the wind was dying. Mark and I furled the jib because it was just flogging. We began motor sailing as I could still trim the main and use the apparent wind to help drive the boat faster. By 1100, even that didn’t help, so I dropped the main and rigged the awning. We motored the rest of the way to our anchorage for the night which is a group of small islands that are part of Indonesia.

We were boarded and checked out by three Indonesian navy men who arrived in a rowboat being towed by a fishing boat. They were very friendly and just asked for our names and the home port of Pipe Dream. After having a couple of beers and some chit chat , They jumped back in their rowboat and paddled backwards, with the three of them sitting in the bow, towards the island they stay on. One fellow spoke English very well, and translated for the other two. Their tour of duty here at this remote place is six months. The fellow that spoke English said that it was a very long time away from his wife. It made him feel better when I told him that I have been away for over eight months. It was fun being a diplomat for our great country. The coordinates for our location are 2 52.319N 100 33.340E

The sunset was very pretty, and in a tree on the beach off to port we watched a pair of sea eagles roost for the night.

Jeff's Log ~ Sunday, March 30th 2008

N4 14.091 100 34.511E Pangor, Malaysia

We are continuing our trip down the Malaccan Straights. Yesterday, we had an enjoyable sail to Penang, where we anchored about a half mile south of the ferry docks. The anchorage was filled with industrial type boats, many having large tanks on them. The shore was lined with shack type residences which I could not resist going to see. Mark took me in the dink and dropped me off at the head of the wharf. The wharf extends into the bay a quarter mile or so, and when I walked to the street, it was like being in everybody’s living room, as the walkway was less than six feet wide, and most people had open fencing as a living room barrier. Everyone that I said hello to seemed friendly and smiled and said hello back. Unfortunately, the whole part of the town around the jetty was industrial, with many garages and machine shops. I did see a couple of old Bridgeport milling machines that were still in use, and very clean and well kept. It was very hot, though, so I returned to the boat after a very short while. I did not even sample any of the food that I saw, because the heat had me a little nauseous. I called Pipe Dream on the radio, and Mark picked me up in short order. A couple of cold waters, and some air conditioning, and I was good as new. It was actually kind of nice to see some high rise buildings. Penang looked like a modern city with a lot of high rise buildings and a large suspension bridge that was currently under repair spanning the bay.

We left the anchorage at first light and headed south in overcast and somewhat dreary skies. While I was on watch, at about 10:00, Scott came up and commented about the look of the sky, and how we could have some wind in an hour or so. Ten minutes later, it was blowing hard, and I asked for my rain jacket. The wind continued, and the sea grew to a large confused chop. When I relieved Scott at 2:30, I had a fun time driving for the next two and a half hours. Because of the weather conditions, Scott changed our destination for the day to Pangor. We are anchored in the channel between an island and the mainland with a navy base nearby. There is a quaint fishing community just off our port side. Up on the hill behind the shack type houses is what seems to be a cemetery, and we could see some people at one of the altars burning a large amount of incense, and the sweet smelling smoke drifted over us.

The day ended with a nice stir fry for dinner and a friendly game of sequence which is a card game, and turning in early because we leave at dawn.

Jeff's Log ~ Saturday, March 29th 2008

6 03.335N 99 52.200E

Yesterday, after leaving the anchorage outside of the marina, we took a short ride to a place called The Lake Of The Pregnant Maiden. We anchored about 300 meters away from the dock in about 18’ of water. Then we all jumped in the dink and went ashore to a nice little park area that has a walkway built through a fairly dense jungle to a fresh water lake. It is named after the rock formation that towers over it resembling a pregnant woman lying on her back. There is a nice floating pier from which we jumped in and swam in fresh water for the first time in a very long time. There is a natural rock dam that keeps the salt water out.

On the pier is a t-shirt shop and paddle boat rental shack. The island is really cool with wild monkeys running about. There is heavy vegetation, and I even saw a termite mound. The termites had eaten the previous wood structures, and all that was left was a couple of eaten remains sticking up from concrete plugs. After a refreshing swim we walked back to the dock and returned to the big boat.

Just around the island’s corner, we anchored for the night. Just before sunset, we were treated to the aerial acrobats of two Langkawis. Lang is Malay for eagle, Kawi is Malay for reddish brown. The island used to be full of them, but now because of loss of habitat, the eagles are only seen in the outer islands. The two that were flying just above us were riding the air currents and were very close to the boat I thought of my Big Sis, Chris, and how she would enjoy the show. The sunset was a very pretty one with orange and yellow steaks in the clouds.

In the morning as the sun came up, the cries of eagles could plainly be heard, along with the other bird songs. Quite a nice start to the day, I’ll tell you. We were under way as the sun broke the horizon, making our way down the Malacan Straights towards Singapore.

Captain Scott ~ Thursday, April 3rd, 2008

Subject: Singapore

The Indonesian Navy left us by rowboat. The senior rank in a pressed uniform sat on the forward thwart facing aft. The 2 others sat in the bow each with a paddle. The transom rose out of the water and they paddled the craft backwards to their island a half mile away. With most of the wetted surface out of the water it was efficient but with a classic 3rd world ridiculous look.

On the next morning, 1 April, we were hit with a thunder bumper before we got under way. Angry waves broke over rocks not far behind as the shift in wind put us on a lee shore. The anchor held and we left in clearing weather a few hours late. We made good time crossing the busy shipping channel and by nightfall anchored under a Malaysian headland---2 24.7N 101 52.2 E. Wed the 2nd was our longest day---109nm to Pisang Island.

We were visited by a Malaysian patrol boat all very friendly.Countries seem to be taking this pirate thing seriously.Today it’s a short sprint in to Singapore—Raffles Marina. First class spot with rates to match

Tuesday, April 1, 2008

Captain Scott's Log ~ Monday, March 31st, 2008

Indonesia

The bad weather blew itself out over night and we had a great night off
Pangkor. Today in flat calm we motered south toward Sumatra and Indonesia.
Now at anchor in the Indonesian Islands of Aruan--N 2 52. We are half way
down the Malacca Straits. These islands are 9 in number and we learned has a
navy outpost. A rowboat was towed to us by a fisherman and the rowboat had 3 Navy men who boarded us. A few beers later ( they wanted whisky) they were happy and ready to leave at sunset.

They are here for 6 months, an outpost of 11 men. Are you ok I asked. They replied " you sail around the world but I paddle arround my island". And so last night we were protected by the Malysian Navy with 3 state of the art missle cruisers and tonight the Indosians have a rowboat at our disposal.

Captain Scott's Log ~ Sunday, March 30th 2008

Weekend in Malacca Straits

Saturday we left Langkawi and sailed to Penang 66 miles away on a beautiful close reach--sailing at its best. I Anchored in the old Junk Anchorage off china town. We went ashore but gave up on hot dirty congested garbage strewn streets. Back on board we showered in air conditioning splendor and barbequed dinner in the sunset. 5 guard dogs on the neighboring wreck gave us security. Actually they woke us 4 times barking at nothing or each other.

Small joys: 2 chinamen flying homemade kites from the dock--a man singing at dawn--a local sport club canoe with 18 muscular paddlers---a 3 masted junk anchoring next to us---the bell tower ashore chiming the hour. On Sunday we left at first light and in the earily morning a front like dark cloud line passed and we were sailing at up to 12 kts through hundreds of fishing boats. They all picked up their nets and headed for shore at top speed. We were so pleased with our fast glorious sail but wondered what they knew that we didn't. The winds gusted over 30 and more black clouds darken the sky.

We sailed under reefed main only and it was time for plan B. So we altered
course for Pangor and by sunset got into the lee of this island. Now in a
steady rain with heavy lightning and thunder. But at anchor off a small
fishing village. The Malaysian Navy base with large warships nearby mean no
pirates. Above the fishing village we watch a couple prey over a new grave
with incense fires.