Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 3:04 AM
Subject: Gawn on the Bering Sea
Only 12 hours since my last mail in Umnak Pass and that was only 40 miles ago. With the night which finally settled in around midnight came stronger headwinds and a roaring current against us. To keep from being swept back wards out of the pass the last gallon of diesel was required. But the old girl keeps on ticking. Now the last tank reads empty--I know there is a little there but will need it for docking. With the night also came Real Cold. Three layers of thermals was not enough for the deck and two layers not enough for the bunk--even with the Patagonia down sleeping bag. My Gortex waterproof socks as a third layer feels good in the sea boots. 54 degrees north. The dawn is calm, cold, and foggy. The sea is glassy flat--but, Dutch Harbor is JUST around the corner
Thursday, August 7, 2008
Captain Scott's Log ~ Tuesday, August 5th, 2008
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 6:58 PM
Subject: Umnak Pass
As I write this we are in the pass at sunset with only 90 miles to Dutch Harbor. After 10 days of continuous fog, the wet misty stuff lifted today. We had a sudden view of the snow capped volcanos on the "Islands of Four Mountains". Quite a view for our first landfall. Umnak is an 80 mile long island and we have run beside it most of the day. Its tallest volcano is more than 7000 feet high. But it’s the Okmok Caldera that blew its top 3 weeks ago. We have light ash on the deck but otherwise no evidence of activity. The caldera is 6 to 10 miles across. Great visibility is very cold air but patchy fog is reclaiming the night. Today we found and stopped at a sea lion colony on an offshore island. Lots of noise and bellows from the beach masters. Kelp has floated by us for the past day in massive patches. Some stems as long as the boat and as thick as my arm. The bird life is unbelievable. No bears yet. But its the dozens of volcanoes that rise into
the clouds that stir the imagination.
Subject: Umnak Pass
As I write this we are in the pass at sunset with only 90 miles to Dutch Harbor. After 10 days of continuous fog, the wet misty stuff lifted today. We had a sudden view of the snow capped volcanos on the "Islands of Four Mountains". Quite a view for our first landfall. Umnak is an 80 mile long island and we have run beside it most of the day. Its tallest volcano is more than 7000 feet high. But it’s the Okmok Caldera that blew its top 3 weeks ago. We have light ash on the deck but otherwise no evidence of activity. The caldera is 6 to 10 miles across. Great visibility is very cold air but patchy fog is reclaiming the night. Today we found and stopped at a sea lion colony on an offshore island. Lots of noise and bellows from the beach masters. Kelp has floated by us for the past day in massive patches. Some stems as long as the boat and as thick as my arm. The bird life is unbelievable. No bears yet. But its the dozens of volcanoes that rise into
the clouds that stir the imagination.
Monday, August 4, 2008
Captain Scott's Log ~ Monday, August 4th, 2008
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 2:56 AM
Sat night I wrote in the log "Colder again and thermal long johns welcome. Fog as always but not so wet. The boat has a slight heel in the weak wind and the sound of the engine all too familiar. On deck faint phosphorescence flows by in the swirl of the bow wave but mostly only the glow of the instruments warms the night. The radar shows light rain to leeward but otherwise an empty sea. The promise of the Aleutians will require a few more lonely nights." Sunday the mast head wind indicator quit and Neil was sent to the top to no avail. By afternoon we had a sailing breeze and the chute up. Before dark the wind backed further and increased. Now blowing directly
from Kodiak and why we are headed to Dutch Harbor. But hard on the wind on starboard tack we had reason to worry about the rig with the broken D3. It was out of column and we tried several different configurations. We lived the night with full main with some luffing, 60% rolled up jib, and loosened backstay. I believe if the mast had been aluminum we would have lost it. But its carbon. It blew 20 last night but now it’s a pleasant and safe 13 knot beat. Unlikely to make Umnak Pass and will probably pass close to "The Islands of 4 Mountains" tomorrow. Water temp 52
Sat night I wrote in the log "Colder again and thermal long johns welcome. Fog as always but not so wet. The boat has a slight heel in the weak wind and the sound of the engine all too familiar. On deck faint phosphorescence flows by in the swirl of the bow wave but mostly only the glow of the instruments warms the night. The radar shows light rain to leeward but otherwise an empty sea. The promise of the Aleutians will require a few more lonely nights." Sunday the mast head wind indicator quit and Neil was sent to the top to no avail. By afternoon we had a sailing breeze and the chute up. Before dark the wind backed further and increased. Now blowing directly
from Kodiak and why we are headed to Dutch Harbor. But hard on the wind on starboard tack we had reason to worry about the rig with the broken D3. It was out of column and we tried several different configurations. We lived the night with full main with some luffing, 60% rolled up jib, and loosened backstay. I believe if the mast had been aluminum we would have lost it. But its carbon. It blew 20 last night but now it’s a pleasant and safe 13 knot beat. Unlikely to make Umnak Pass and will probably pass close to "The Islands of 4 Mountains" tomorrow. Water temp 52
Captain Scott's Log ~ Saturday, August 2nd, 2008
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 11:42 AM
We have changed our clocks again. Now GMT minus 11 or Samoan or midway time. We have 6 kts of breeze for past 24hours. Seas flat and we are moving at the same speed as the wind using the chute, Saw another seal. They lie on their backs in the calm water holding their flippers up for warmth. Each time we have mistaken the flipper for a dorsal fin but the head pops up as the boat closes. Engine time and fuel becoming critical. The main has been on so much that we had to shut it down and change oil today. Too much motoring. Also becoming critical is the number of days left. It’s going to be hard to get to Seward in time for Neil’s flight home. Sat 3pm here at 46 54n 176 43west--drifting 500 mile from Umnak Pass and the Okmok Volcano. I have a song on board that we will play as we sail by--" I don’t know. I don’t know. I don’t know where I'm going to go when the vol-ca-no blows" Only 75 miles further to Dutch Harbor (via the Bering Sea) to get to our real destination---The Unisea Sports Bar and Grill
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 9:47 AM
Diverting to Dutch Harbor
Commanders confirms light wind followed by NE breeze if we continue present course to Kodiak. Now under engine heading 39 degrees toward Umnak pass 690nm away. Umnak has the erupting volcano close to the pass. I have phoned Dutch Harbor and they confirm that they have ash in the air but believe the pass is open. 2380 nm out of Japan. Fog every day and night
We have changed our clocks again. Now GMT minus 11 or Samoan or midway time. We have 6 kts of breeze for past 24hours. Seas flat and we are moving at the same speed as the wind using the chute, Saw another seal. They lie on their backs in the calm water holding their flippers up for warmth. Each time we have mistaken the flipper for a dorsal fin but the head pops up as the boat closes. Engine time and fuel becoming critical. The main has been on so much that we had to shut it down and change oil today. Too much motoring. Also becoming critical is the number of days left. It’s going to be hard to get to Seward in time for Neil’s flight home. Sat 3pm here at 46 54n 176 43west--drifting 500 mile from Umnak Pass and the Okmok Volcano. I have a song on board that we will play as we sail by--" I don’t know. I don’t know. I don’t know where I'm going to go when the vol-ca-no blows" Only 75 miles further to Dutch Harbor (via the Bering Sea) to get to our real destination---The Unisea Sports Bar and Grill
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 9:47 AM
Diverting to Dutch Harbor
Commanders confirms light wind followed by NE breeze if we continue present course to Kodiak. Now under engine heading 39 degrees toward Umnak pass 690nm away. Umnak has the erupting volcano close to the pass. I have phoned Dutch Harbor and they confirm that they have ash in the air but believe the pass is open. 2380 nm out of Japan. Fog every day and night
Jeff's Log ~ Friday, August 1st, 2008
According to the speed we are going now, it is six and a half days to Kodiak. Position now is 43 33.46N, 176 27.38E. We're cruising along over nine knots with the sails wing and wing. We have the baby jib poled out on the starboard side. The wind is out of the WSW, we are traveling engine. All is well, the food is still good. It's amazing the way people who claim that they can't cook really can! My anticipation is building every day.
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