Thursday, July 31, 2008

Captain Scott's Log ~ Friday August 1st, 2008

Sent: Friday, August 01, 2008 6:22 AM
1 Aug

As we will cross the date line sometime in the next 48hrs there it will be 2 Aug firsts for us. Thank God for Commanders. Instead of beating into it, we were routed SE. All day the wind dropped, fog increased, it stayed cold, and then we broke out into sunshine. The new wind filled in from the SW and it was a whole new world. Warm. I was wearing 3 layers of heavy stuff and now back to shorts only!!. Wing and wing past 36 hours pointing at Kodiac. 43 22n 175 48e

Captain Scott's Log ~ Wednesday, July 30, 2008 7:38 AM

Flat calm yesterday. But 22 kts of wind on the nose past 16 hrs. Reefed main and small #3 jib. The radar backstay mount came apart under the pounding. Commanders has us heading SE to penetrate a series of lows and connecting fronts that extends from Kodiac to Japan. Looks like 24 more hours of S...before we break free. Whale sounds are penetrating the hull but we don’t see them in the poor visibility. 42 59n 168 16 e. The deviation to the SE plus the weather pattern is likely to keep us too far S to get to Dutch Harbor.

Captain Scott's Log ~ Tuesday, July 29, 2008 2:00 PM

Subject: P Dream becalmed

Now 108 hrs of engine time since leaving Japan. Also some sunshine today. Yesterday we motored around a seal. Today we had a pod of dolphins play with us for hours. Never saw this variety before. Orca coloring, small dorsal fin, and very curious. If we stood on the transom, they would collect behind the boat. Nearest land is Kamchatka Pen 580nm away--this extends down from Siberia. The closest Aleutians are 600 away. Commander’s weather has routed us south to be on right side of the next low. We have a swell building from the south which we hope means wind will follow.

Captain Scott's Log ~ Monday, July 28, 2008 2:50 PM

Subject: P Dream

43 10n 162 10e 9 days out 1525 miles sailed. Just a couple hundred short of half way to Kodiac. Its been slow and we have more than 80 hours of engine time used. The barometer has risen and the skies cleared as we sit in the middle of a high. As expected--no wind. With the sails down and the boat gently rolling, the starboard D3 broke---that’s one of our rod stays. Neil has drilled out the old fitting to fasten a shackle to it. Then a piece of Kevlar line with is used to replace the rod. A reasonable jury rig that should get us there. Of course it would break at the half way point which gives us few options. We are eating OK. None of Pats truffle creations but every night the plates are scraped clean. The 4 of us take turns. Attempts at scones yielded rocks with the weight equivalent of spent uranium. My last creation was a seafood pasta. The Japanese package of seafood had some English on it. It said “High quality. Good for nonchalance senses."

Jeff's Log ~ Monday, July 28th, 2008

We are now about halfway to Kodiak. I have seen quite a few whale spouts, and one whale got close enough so that I could see the water going over the huge side of his body. It was big and gray in color. Today we saw one little seal all by himself. I took the boat close, and Dave and Neil got some pictures.

No wind today, so we are motoring. One of the rods that support the mast broke when a wave shook the boat. It looks like it had been cracked for a while. Neil went up the mast, and we both worked for a couple of hours to rig a piece of high strength spectra line to take its place. I think that it is a good repair. We drilled the adjusting sleeve and put a shackle through it so that the line can be tensioned. That should hold until we get to Alaska. Scott made spaghetti with shrimp sauce for dinner. It was really good.

Happy Birthday Jeff !!! Sunday, July 27th, 2008

Captain Scott's Log ~ Wednesday, July 23, 2008 5:56 PM

Subject: 38 11n 146 04e

Yesterday was a 216 mile run and today will be similar. This is a cruise. I have Commanders weather routing service for this crossing. And, we have two (2 no waiting) Iridium Sat phones. So we may be south of the Kuril Islands ( Kurilskie Ostrova on my chart) but we can reach out and touch somebody. Commanders is routing us south from a low forming over the western Aleutians. The forcast called for 25kts with gusts to 30 now. So all crew has harnesses, personal strobes, and instructions for sail reduction and man over board. The actual wind? 15 from the SW--a cruise. Neil is in the galley--the last of the 4 of us to take a turn. If anyone complains---But good But good. There has been one whale sighting and lots of Dolphins

Jeff's Log ~ Thursday, July 24th, 2008

Comfortably cruising in the rain, sometimes using the engine, sometimes sailing.We are now at the end of our sixth day at sea, and doing well. Neil and Dave are both really great nsailors, and I am proud to be sailing with them.I am learning more from them every day. Position now is 40 54.61N 150 11.33E, less than 2500 miles from Kodiak, Alaska. We started the trip with a couple of two hundred plus mile days after clearing the last Japanese islands. I hope that kind of breeze comes back. Other than the rain the last couple of nights, weather has been delightful. Doing well on food too. Scott is the pasta chef, Neil and I each hold our own, and Dave did some good burgers.I will kiss the ground when I reach American soil again. It's been a long time since I have been home.

Captain Scott's Log ~ Tuesday, July 22, 2008 7:28 AM

Subject: p dream 3 days out

The first 2 days this yacht was the slow boat to China. But beautiful calm seas and clear sunny weather. 60% under power and 40% sailing. The sail was light air beating---easy and slow. Just before dark on the 21st we passed close by To Sima a sheer volcanic island. Its one in a long chain that extends south of Tokyo and the last land we will see till Alaska. We logged only 308 nm in the first 48hrs and not all of that toward the mark. Last night I had the heavy freezer door open (up) and my wrist on the edge. When the door fell on my wrist I thought it was broken. The blow cut through and mangled my metal watch band. The watch is gone but my wrist is still here.

Around 3 am we got nice sailing wind and also picked up the Japan current that hopefully will be with us all the way across. Wind SE at 12. Pipe Dream reaching NE at 8.5 kts and SOG a steady 11. Both Neil and David are very enthusiastic sailors. Back when things were calm they wanted to change sails. Neil was on the helm sailing hard on the wind. I gave him a new course to the NE allowing him to drop off. As the boat came alive he whooped " Woo Woo Bears here we come!!"

Captain Scott's Log ~ Tuesday, July 22, 2008 10:01 AM

Subject: at sea

If the first 2 days were slow, the 3rd was intermittently fast. But all 3 were perfectly beautiful days on the water. The slow exit from Japan continued till 3am. Then wind, engine off, and great reach in flat water. With a big current boost we had a top SOG of 13.1! By midday the wind and current dropped. Eager Neil and Dave petitioned for the spinnaker which we flew all afternoon. Now at night the North Star is higher than I expected and Antares is lower in the southern sky than I have seen for some time. Also advance time zone to GMT +10 or now 10 hours earlier than Miami. Now at 36.27n 143.05e moving NE at 9 kts---and Just loving it.

Captain Scott's Log ~ Sunday, July 20, 2008 12:19 PM

1200 hrs 33 15s 136 03e. On the 19th we finished our preparations for sea. Neil arrived at dusk and we went out to dinner. At 2130 the dock lines were untied and are not likely to be used again in the next 3700 miles. The first 12 hours was under power in flat calm going south to get out of Osaka Bay. Moderate freighter traffic to make things interesting and a full moon to light up the phosphoresce. By daylight we were in the open sea south of Japan motoring east. 12kts of wind came up and Pipe Dream set sail. The wind is ahead and so we are beating but the sea is smooth and it’s a lovely sail. On starboard tack we are headed for Tokyo and on port tack we are pointed at Hawaii. But sailing we are and I Just love it.

Captain Scott's Log ~ Thursday, July 17th, 2008

Yesterday we went into downtown Osaka and spent most of our time in Osaka Castle. Also yesterday started our final preparations for the crossing to Alaska. Much of the preliminary stuff had already been done---new running backs made and put on, mainsail reworked at the sail maker, injectors rebuilt. Now we defrosted and cleaned the freezer and refrig. We were crossing with a veteran crew of 5. But Pat Montgomery backed out and I had insufficient time to find a replacement--so we are 4 guys. OK for sailing but not so good for eating.

Now comes the really scarey part--it falls to Jeff and I to provision and store everything on board. Imagine 2 men who have no idea of how to cook going through a supermarket and trying to buy for 4 people for 4 weeks. Lots of peanut butter and tuna fish. But wait it gets worse---everything is in Japanese. "Is this a can of tuna fish?" Don’t know but the picture sort of looks like octopus. Yeah, so how about this one? Might be sardines or salmon. Yeah, well, we could use 12 cans of tuna fish (since we don’t know how to use anything else) so let’s take 12. Hope you like sardines! We have cans of orange round things and cans of purple stringy things. And we never did find bread or sugar or or....
Jeff and I need to go on a diet anyway.

Jeff's Log ~ Wednesday, July 16th, 2008

Nishonomyia Marina, Osaka, Japan

Life aboard for me has been very busy since Scott has returned and we are cruising around Japan. My job takes a lot of time and mental energy when the owner and guests are aboard. Charlie and Mimi have been wonderful to have aboard. Tomorrow morning, Gill leaves for Miami, and we return to Tannowa for a change of crew.

We spent a couple of nights in Osaka, at the Shin Nishonomiya Marina. We pulled in on Tuesday, which is a day off for Japanese marinas. The staff at our last port, Suntopia, called ahead for us, and we had docking instructions. We tied up to a large floating dock directly behind the beautiful antique America’s Cup Yacht Endeavour. She has been completely redone and is painted a grayish blue, with lots of varnish and highly polished stainless on the topsides. Directly across the street from the marina was a very well stocked grocery store, so I spent my two days provisioning Pipe Dream for the trip to Alaska. Our freezer is now full, and food is stored just about every where it will fit. When we get to Tannowa, we will do one more food store run for the fresh fruit and vegetables to get us through the first part of our trip.

Alaska is about 3500 miles, and we will be at sea roughly twenty five days, depending on the weather. If we encounter any kind of decent sailing breeze, it could shorten the time. I am getting excited about the longest sea journey that I have ever been on. There will be four crew on this trip, Myself, Scott, Neil, and David Woolsey. Neil is a past captain of Pipe Dream, so he knows the boat well. David, I understand is an accomplished sailor with lots of time on the water. I know his brother Chris. Chris and I have sailed together on race boats. I will be out of touch until after reaching Alaska, but Scott will continue sending his updates. He has new satellite communication gear which works very well. I can hardly wait to be back on American soil where English is spoken, menus can be read, and cell phones are used at reasonable cost. I sure do miss all of my friends and family, and it won’t be long now until I will see you all again.

Jeff's Log ~ Friday, July 11th, 2008

July 11, 2008 Kanon Marina, Hiroshima, Japan

Before we left Okinoshima, Mimi and I went ashore and she gave me a haircut. I was getting a little shaggy, and it was hard to keep the hair out of my eyes. When she was finished, her husband Charlie and I went for a little stroll around the grounds of the marina. They are in the process of installing a small fiberglass swimming pool, and we noticed an animal had fallen in the half full pool and was apparently dead. As we approached, I noticed slight movement at the front legs. It was a smallish cat. We found a couple wood scraps, and prodded the cat with one, and put the other underneath it. As soon as it realized that it could get it’s claws into the wood, it woke up and quickly ran up the board and scurried into the underbrush. We both felt really good about that all day. It certainly was that cat’s lucky day.

We arrived at Miyashima before lunch, launched the dingy, and I took everyone ashore so they could view the shrine and surrounding area. I returned to the boat and carried on my usual chores. The waterline already had an accumulation of slime, so I jumped in and scrubbed the “Manila belt” again. It was a hot sunny day, so their trip ashore ended shortly after lunch, and I went in to get them. Later, we all went in for dinner ashore, but everything closes at around 1800. We went back to the boat, and I took a turn at cooking and made us spaghetti and meat sauce again.

On Thursday morning, Charlie and the girls went for a hike to ride a cable car. Scott stayed with me on the boat, and set up his new satellite phone for sending his e-mails. I went back to work on the bottom cleaning the small spots that I had missed in Tannowa. I was in the water when a fairly large white boat came into the cove and tooted its whistle. I could see blue uniforms on board, so I hustled out of the water and got on deck. It was the Japanese customs boat and they wanted to board. Scott and I got fenders out, but the ship’s gunnels were the perfect height to take our stanchions out. I started showing the helmsman distance from our rail, and five customs men jumped from their boat to ours. It was the same drill with all of the forms getting filled out. I completed the set of paperwork, and he asked me to fill out another set for Hiroshima port. As he interviewed me, he made notes on his pad. After completing the interview, three men looked through the boat. They were satisfied and left. On the way out, He told me to call when I arrived.
We arrived at Kanon Marina a few hours later, and I registered at the office, and I called customs. The same officer answered the phone and told me that I should not call him. I think there were some language issues going on for sure. Right now, we are tied up a fence away from McDonalds Restaurant. It is very nice for getting ice cream.

This morning we all went to the Peace Park, and toured the Atom Bomb Museum. Hiroshima is very flat, and more populated than Nagasaki, and the atom bomb blast destroyed the entire city in a matter of seconds. Only one building was left partially standing, and today it is part of the monument. This museum was a little harsher in what it had to say about the United States using a weapon like the atomic bomb than the museum in Nagasaki. Seeing it again was worthwhile, and while touring the park, we did our best to make the peace bell ring, but the striker had been removed. A sharp rap with knuckles made it ring, but softly. Unfortunately, I was involved in marina dealings, and forgot to take my camera on leaving, so I did not get pictures of any of this. Charlie will send them to me once he is home.