Friday, May 23, 2008

Captain Scott's Log ~ Thursday, May 22nd, 2008

9:04 PM

Weather here is wet under an occluded front but sea state and wind good. A new low is forming near the Phillipeans and so we will push on. We leave today for Yaku Sima 30 20n 130 39e. From there we will either go west around Kyushu toward Nagaski as originally planned OR go east in a sprint to Osaka.

Jeff's Log ~ Wednesday, May 21st, 2008

We left Ishigaki two days ago at about 11:00AM, because Scott got ants in his pants, and just could not stand to be there any longer. He and Mark went for the weather, and as soon as he saw the tropical depression was abeam of us, he said that was all he needed. Mark looked at the wind field report and wanted to wait until Tuesday morning. Scott over ruled him and we drove out of the marina. When we left, the wind was 18 knots. It soon built to 28 knots, and we anchored at noon after traveling a whopping seven miles. I don’t think I will ever understand that move. Mark and I kind of got hurt feelings because we could have had one more night hanging with all of our new friends, but what can ya do?

We sure did enjoy Café Taniwha. Saturday night, they had a Japanese folk singer there who jammed with anyone who could play an instrument or sing. Lots of people joined in playing the piano, the guitar, bongos and drums. One very talented young lady sang a couple of solos and then a duet with the folk singer. A couple of our friends from previous evenings were there. The singer is the son of the man who manufactures the rice liquor that we were drinking.

Sunday, a female singer by the name of Nanami performed there. We had met her the first night, and were impressed with her talent. She put on a great show and at times reminded me of Gloria Estefan. She was accompanied by a fellow playing the guitar who was just incredible. After her performance, we all hung out and just had a good time. I shot some darts with my favorite English student named Nobu. We had a lot of fun with him and a guy named Iraki on one of the previous nights. Kuri has an English class once a week for some of his patrons. We came in right after class was over, and Kuri announced that we could help them practice English. I announced back to everyone that we could help them talk English good! They all knew enough about sentence structure to get a laugh out of that. Mark and I sat down at a table and were soon surrounded by people. We had a real good time, and Nobu would get excited and start mixing Japanese and English, and we would all say ENGLISH!!! Then he started drawing pictures and writing stuff and we all added to the VIP (very important paper). I have that paper, and will try to keep it forever as a reminder of a really great place full of really great people.

While we were in Ishigaki, people came to see the boat almost every day. The girls that we met in Café Taniwha came the next morning with Kuri. There was Nanami, the singer, Ria a writer, and Junko, who sells beer and other items for Kirin brewery. They brought along a couple from another boat in the marina by the name of Kiko and her husband Masa. They all loved Pipe Dream, and were especially thrilled with drinking water that had been made from the sea. Kuri knew about water makers, but none of the others did. Ria and Junko invited us to dinner that night at a local restaurant. We went and had a great meal with lots of laughs. The food was local fare with a lot of raw fish, tofu, and other things that hardly any Americans eat. I am keeping an open mind about Japanese food and so far I will eat everything that I’ve had again. I am finally learning how to eat with chop sticks too. I even like sea weed!

On Sunday night, the whole crew of the boat went to hear Nanami sing. Kuri has many flags of many countries displayed along the ceiling of Taniwha. Scott took one of our old American flags that was a little frayed at the upper corner and slightly gray from exhaust staining. It had flown from Pipe Dream around the world. He presented it to Kuri, and everyone wanted to get in the pictures taken by everyone. Unfortunately, my little faithful camera is now Kaput, so I will have to see about someone emailing them to me. Hopefully, I’ll get that worked out.

It sure was hard to say goodbye to such a great bunch. There were many hand shakes, bows and hugs all around, and a few teary eyes, especially mine. The best thing about my job, is meeting people from around the world. It is really amazing to me that people open up to me everywhere I go. I feel truly blessed with all of the good friends that I have made during my travels so far, and am very thankful to have this opportunity. If anybody knows George Bush, tell him that he should be paying me big bucks to be an Ambassador!

One thing about Japan is that western electronics will not work here. Kuri got a telephone for me, so at least I can call home. I could not find a pay phone that would make international calls. They also have radio frequencies jammed, and Scott’s Sky mate will not work. Sky mate is in the process of getting permission granted, but until they do, we are out of touch with the rest of the world. We will be at sea for the next day, or so, and hopefully the next port-of-call will be as nice or nicer. Ishigaki will be tough to beat, though.

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Captain Scott's Log ~ Tuesday, May 20th, 2008

Sent: 3:38 PM
Subject: Passing Okinawa

On the 19th the Japs revised their forcast to agree with the USA one and the
storm was well to the east and safe for us to leave. So we cleared out, we last
minute shopped and was underway by 11. Amami OShima 400 miles to the NE. By
noon it was clear that we were leaving in the same deplorable conditions
that we had arrived in--big seas and high wind on the nose. So we found
another little cove and anchored. Rain and more wind in the afternoon made
this decision even better. Renan cooked up curried shrimp (no raw fish) for
dinner which we had with wine and it was a snug night. Several freighters
anchored in this lee behind us. Dawn showed us what a pretty island Ishigki
is. On leaving the anchor would not come up--hooked on a coral head. So we
dunked Mark and he got us free and underway by 9. Left over seas and wind
still on the nose made an unpleasant start. But by afternoon the main
steadied us as the wind veered to the East. Passed 25N and a full moon made
it a good night at sea. Now at dawn the wind is light and shifting but seas
down to 4 or 5 feet. Power sailing passing Okinawa

Monday, May 19, 2008

Jeff's Log ~ Saturday, May 17th, 2008

Kuri told me he would have a phone for me today. That’s pretty exciting. This keyboard is difficult to use. There is a secret key that when bumped will change everything back to Japanese. It took me about 57 tries to get the little at symbol so I could get my email. Now when I hit it this is what I get [[[[[[ isn’t that wonderful? Thank God I got it once for my email address. All is well here, supposed to get some hard wind tonight and tomorrow. We put a breast anchor on Pipe Dream to pull her off of the sea wall a bit. I am enjoying the days of rest, even though Scott wants to leave. He’s handling it very well, and beginning to sightsee a bit. We had fun last night at cafe Taniwha. There was a folk singer doing Jap folk music, and a lot of people from the bar joined in playing various instruments and singing. A good jam session for sure. Tonight a singer from Tokyo that we met there the other night is singing to sort of promote her new cd. That should be another fun night.

It reminds me of the fireplug and all of the great people there. The local people always greet me warmly when I walk in and even though most do not speak English, we are still communicating. Everyone is interested in hearing about our travels, and Kuri answers what questions I can’t get through. It really is quite cool. When I do get my computer on line, I will send a list of email addresses so our blog can go around the world. The only problem in staying at places like this for a while is that it gets harder to say goodbye the longer we are here. It is gratifying that I will have friends around the globe who I will not forget and who I hope will remember me. Say hello to everyone for me. Miss ya

Jeff's Log ~ Friday, May 16th, 2008

I've walked about four miles, and tried about 6 phones, but cannot get one to work. I could see one that I could change to English, but could not get the phone booth door open. I really miss talking to you. This will have to do for now. One of the people from cafe Taniwha is ちぇc金g恩子st、絵tcふぉr亜背llp骨ふぉrめ oops! Checking on cost,etc. and will help me by getting a phone for me if we stay here long enough.

We are waiting on weather to clear, as the system is wandering around just to the south of us. Scott is very antsy about leaving, but so far is being cautious. Anything new and exciting going on at home? Here all is well. Beginning to understand Japanese customs a little bit better.
Yes means maybe, maybe means no, no means what.... are you nuts??? When things are too far to walk, I take a city map with me and point to where I want taxi to take me.

Last night at Kuri & bar, they had an English class just before we got there. Mark and I had a lot of fun with a couple of the guys teaching them how to talk English good. Some things get lost in translation, so lots of picture drawing with circles and arrows was going on. It was a lot of alcohol affected humor, but really good time. I’ll try to save the paper we were playing on, but 5 more months on the boat... who knows?

My little camera is on its way out. The lens is grinding as it goes in and out. Sometimes the pictures are like pink negatives, or full of lines. When we get to a bigger city, I will have to get a new one. I carry my phone now to use as camera. The internet cafe in the ferry station is really cool. As I sit here, there is a huge theater screen and surround sound and a film of all kinds of scenery and animals, etc. is playing. Very relaxing, and I could enjoy sitting here for hours.

Jeff's Log ~ Wednesday, May 14, 2008 Ishigaki, Japan

Boy was I wrong about not needing fowl weather gear! The first thing that happened after going on watch was a large wave that broke just as we approached it and I got completely soaked. The wind was blowing hard enough that I dried out quickly and I put my jacket on to stay warm. We arrived in the dark and navigated the entrance to the port of Ishigaki like the professionals we are paid to be. There are many breakwaters that we had to work our way around without a detailed chart. Tracy was down below trying to communicate on the radio while Scott, Mark and I picked our way through the maze of lights, anchored ships, and barges, as well as a dredge in the darkness. It all worked out, and we ended up tying up to a breakwater next to the Japan Coast Guard station. We spent the night there and everyone slept very well.

This morning, we had to get up early to put the boat where she needed to go. The wind had us pinned on the sea wall, there was a boat in front and a raft behind, and springing the bow out would not quite work. We launched the dink, and used it as a tug boat to get the bow clear of the boat ahead. We then proceeded to the yacht marina area and shortly after getting tied up, were met with a barrage of officials. Immigration came with two men. Quarantine officer had to come on board first. After he cleared us, immigration boarded. Customs came with eight men; coast guard came with six men. Vegetation quarantine boarded and told us to keep whatever fruit and vegetables we had on board to ourselves. Immigration took us in two carloads to be photographed and fingerprinted. It was a whirlwind of activity.

Scott had arranged to meet a fellow by the name of Mike who is from Texas but is a permanent resident here. Mike gave us some basic knowledge to help us get started. He gave us a map of the city with some places of interest marked and labeled. Then we were off to the post office which has the only English ATM’s in the city. The machines will only give you 10,000 yen, about a hundred dollars. It is now Friday, and I have found out that 10,000 yen doesn’t go very far. Things here are definitely more expensive than the previous countries. Laundry was the next item of importance, because Manila was the last time it got done. There was lots and lots. When we got to the laundry place, the girl was surprised by how much we had. I was surprised with how much it cost. 364,000 yen! I had to give her a down payment because I did not have enough money.

Mike recommended a fellow sailor’s restaurant and bar as a good place to go, so we went there for lunch and introduced ourselves. His name is Cury, and his wife is Fusi. Their place is very cute, with lots of nick-nacs sitting on the bar. Mark and I really like the people and the place, so we stayed out very late last night and had a good time with the native crowd. There was a singer from Tokyo who was visiting Cury and she sang a couple of songs for us. We sat around with her and her girlfriends, and they asked us questions nonstop. Cury kept mixing up what we called “dangerous drinks” made from some rice liquor. Cury has been a big help to us, and called in some friends that have been sailing around Japan for years to help us pick out safe anchorages along our path in case they are needed.

I took Scott’s computer and re-downloaded the sky mate software while I was there. The evening’s fun ended at about 2:30AM. Cury called a couple of cabs, and we all went home happy. This morning, Scott, Tracey and Renon went on the ferry to a nearby island for some sight-seeing, so Mark and I could sleep in a bit. He’s still sawing logs, but I am wide awake, bright eyed and bushy-tailed. I am going to try to find a working telephone.

Jeff's Log ~ Tuesday, May 13, 2008 Close to our day’s destination Ishagaki Island, Japan

Since leaving the anchorage early Monday morning, we have been battling g wind and waves on the nose. We kept a reefed mainsail up for most of the trip, so that the boat could pound into the waves a little better. The second batten pocket began separating from the sail, so we were forced to drive off the wind a bit to keep the sail a little fuller. That added quite a few hours to our trip. Renon doesn’t handle pitching decks and flying water very well, so we were short handed on the watch rotation. That meant four on and four off. None of us have really slept because of the heavy seas. We have all managed an hour here and there.

Our E.T.A. is 8:30PM. It is now 4PM, and I am writing this because it’s still hard to sleep. Tonight we will be snug in a marina, and I can hardly wait. I do love sailing, but motor sailing into headwinds and big waves is not really sailing, it’s part of the power cruising thing. We are getting to the point when there is a schedule to be followed due to people coming and going.

After all of that pounding, there are just a couple of leaks in this submarine. The large port light over the galley is leaking, and the small hatch in Scott’s head is leaking. The hatch routinely gets caught with jib sheets while tacking, so that one doesn’t surprise me. Job security is what I call it! The dodger, which is a heavy canvas structure with plastic windows, certainly did its job the last couple of days keeping the waves out of the cockpit. I wore my full fowl weather suit last night to make sure I stayed warm and dry. It was the first time that it was cool enough outside to wear it, and I sure am glad I had it because a couple of waves came over the dodger. I would have been soaked and cold without it.

The auto-pilot did the steering all night; I just kept adjusting the course as the wind oscillated. The watches feel like they keep getting longer and longer though. Last one of this leg is coming up, and the seas have moderated so no need for fowlies.

Jeff's Log ~ Sunday, May 11, 2008. 22 02.55N 120 41.58E , Hou-Wan-Tzu, Taiwan

We are anchored in a mostly sheltered cove waiting for the wind to get back to reasonable levels. Yesterday, as we were approaching the south end of Taiwan, the winds built and built. We spent all night and day here watching the wind speeds pretty constantly over thirty knots. Actually for me, it was a welcomed day of rest, and I did sleep a lot of the day away. It seemed like every time I woke up, it was time to eat. Renon made us grilled cheese sandwiches with tomato and bacon for breakfast, some potato and corn chowder with a salad for lunch and delicious, spicy chili for dinner.

Tomorrow, if wind and seas cooperate, Scott wants anchor up at 4am. We want to be at the next stop before dark. I am enjoying Tracy and Renon a lot. Renon has such a great attitude, and Tracy has lots of fun stories that he shares. There is hardly a time when we are not chuckling whenever he is around.

Today is Mother’s Day, So A special HIDEEHO and thanks for all of you wonderful Mothers!!!! Especially my own Mom, I think of her often and love her dearly.

I did fix the leak at the high pressure pump for the water maker this morning, and it is working well again. This boat loves me, that problem sure could have been a lot worse. The hardest part was getting my body into the small space under the cockpit to do the repair. Thank goodness my Dad was a printer and sort of taught me how to work looking in a mirror. It’s sort of like setting type, as it is all backwards.
The only other thing that I accomplished today was cleaning the salon floor after dinner. I let it go for about four days, and it took some extra elbow grease to shine it up. Now I am going to call it an early night as 3:30 will be here sooner than I want. I hope that tomorrow’s weather will give us fair sailing.

Jeff's Log ~ Friday, May 9, 2008.…Port of Kaohsiung, Taiwan

Greetings from Taiwan! We arrived yesterday, and are now tied to a floating dock right across a canal from the ferry docks. I washed the boat and did some polishing, etc. while everyone else went exploring. I have to do the cleaning maintenance when I have the chance, and the water pressure here is good. Pipe Dream enjoyed the bath, and now is back to her gorgeous self. The crew of the neighboring power boat came over and said hello. The captain’s name sounded close to Jamie, so that is what I call him. English is not spoken very much here, so communicating gets to be fairly taxing. After my chores were completed, they invited me over for some beer and snacks. One of the snacks was some duck. I could tell because the whole duck head was in the bag with the chopped up meat. It was pretty tasty, but I did not eat the head.
We were sitting on the fly bridge with the captain, and an electrician that was working on one of the starter motors. Jamie kept going below and coming back with more and more food. I was a little relieved when the crew of Pipe Dream returned as that let me leave gracefully. I was pretty tired from trying to communicate.
Today fuel is my top priority, and trying to get Scott’s Sky mate updated is the next. He has had continuing problems with it, and that makes us all crazy.

The mate on the boat next door was around this morning, so I tried to find out where and how to get fuel. I pointed to their diesel fill and acted out putting fuel in. It was like playing charades. Eventually, I got the point across, and he drew me a picture of a fuel can. Then he called a friend that speaks some English. His fiend told me that he would come at noon to help. When he got there, He introduced himself as Peter; he has turned into my Taiwan connection. He has taught himself English from watching movies. He told us about the fuel dock on the other side of the harbor, and said he would go with us so that language would not be a hindrance. He then asked what else we needed, and took Mark and I to Costco, yes, Costco, for our provisioning. The Costco here in Taiwan was the biggest I have seen. It has a five story parking garage, and three floors of shopping. He was a pretty good tour guide too and showed us around a bit as he drove.
After getting the groceries back to the boat, I took Scott’s computer to Peter’s office/home and plugged in to the internet to download the improved Sky mate software. While that was downloading, we went to lunch at a small, family run restaurant down the street. I tried to pay, but Peter literally elbowed me out of the way so he could pay. I’ll never go hungry in Asian countries. I really like the food. I am doing better with chopsticks too.

The download had taken too long, and the computer had timed out, so I cancelled the power management program and started downloading again. Peter had a date, so I left with the download still running. I went to dinner with everyone at the tallest building in the city. The restaurant was on the thirty eighth floor of eighty six. The view of the city from the restaurant windows was spectacular, and it seemed like the world was in slow motion. There was a Ferris wheel with incredible lighting that kept changing colors and patterns about a mile from the restaurant. It was like Beny Hana, with the chef cooking right in front of us. I had duck, and he prepared it perfectly. We went to a different room for desert and coffee and there was a player piano making nice music as we finished our dinner.

We went back to the boat, and shortly were joined by Peter and his girlfriend Sophie, and the owner of another sailboat named Michael, and his wife Wendy. Peter brought us a case of beer for the boat, and we had a nice little party aboard Pipe Dream. Scott loves to show off his boat as much as I do, and we all were talking and doing a lot of laughing. After having a great evening, we all said good night and made a date for fueling in the morning with our new friends.

Today is Saturday May 10. At 9:00, I went down to pick up Scott’s computer. Peter and Sophie greeted me warmly and offered me breakfast. I had eaten already, so I did decline. The computer was ready to go, and I sat down to send off a quick E-mail to Clara to let her know I was OK. Peter went and picked up some navigation charts which Scott had ordered the day before while I did that. Then we walked back to the boat and were met by three young boys just having a ball on Pipe Dream. Michael and Wendy and their sons went to get fuel too. We sure had a boatful! It was fun to have all of these people with us just to get fuel. After fueling was complete, we had to check out at the port security dock. All of our friends waited with us until immigration came and cleared us out. There were lots of pictures taken by our guests and by the coast guard men who were around, both on and off duty. Pipe Dream was a big hit in Taiwan.

After saying goodbye with handshakes and hugs, we pulled away from the sea wall, raised the mainsail, and we hot-dogged it out of the harbor sailing fast on a brisk wind. It was quite cool to leave like that I think, because everyone could see how spirited the boat is.

The wind came and went for a lot of the afternoon, and then at about 4:30 it really came. I came on watch at 4, and the air was light and fluky. By4:30, it was honking at about 25 knots. At 5, it was 35 knots, and I got a new course to steer for an anchorage. That is where we are now, and we have seen gusts up to 50 knots. The water maker has a leak on the high pressure pump, so we ran it long enough to fill both tanks in case something crumbles tomorrow when I am going try and repair it. We all had a good dinner and cocktails and a hot shower, so all is right with the world for tonight.