Captain Scott's Log ~ October 1st, 3rd, 5th & 6th 2008

Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 2:20 PM
Subject: almost gales and wolves

On Mon the guests went to the airport at 10am. Their plane was delayed for
repair and they took off around 8pm. The airport bar bill exceeded their air
tickets. Back on the boat, Jeff and I got laundry done, engine repaired,
refueled, boat cleaned up, refill propane tanks, and re-fix the autopilot.
The weather perfect and Tuesday was clear sunny and beautiful. So we headed
south for Canada. Things changed fast as they do in these parts. By
afternoon the wind was 25 on the nose and big rolling seas were beginning to
break. The weather service gave gale warnings till midnight wed. So I
stopped at Foggy Bay which is fully protected on all sides prepared to spend
wed there as well. Getting in the narrow entrance with the seas breaking on
rocks on both sides was scary but the millpond inside made it worth it. At
sunset a wolf began to howl and for a half hour we could follow his progress
through the woods. In the silence of the night the howls awoke me at
midnight and again at 4 am. Wed morning dawned clear and calm. The weather
service now reported no gale but deteriorating weather so we left ASAP to
try for Prince Rupert. Now, motor sailing across the Dixon Entrance in good
weather.

Sent: Friday, October 03, 2008 3:58 PM
Subject: Inside passage

Pipe Dream got across the Dixon Entrance in nice weather. This is one of the
few places open to the Pacific Ocean. Freighters offshore were reporting
high wind and dropping barometers but we waltzed into Prince Rupert
unscratched. Clearing into Canada was only a phone call. Prince Rupert is a
real town. Unlike Any place we went in Alaska, Prince Rupert is connected to
the rest of the continent by roads. At noon the outside air temp is 52 and
water temp is 50. Still we have the feeling of being south. Thursday we
pushed on into the inside passage--nearly 100 miles of natural channel
taking us further south. The start was easy but by afternoon the Pacific
gale began to push ashore. Even in the channel we had 30 kts with rain on
the nose. There are good anchorages everywhere. So I quit early and
anchored in Kumealon Inlet 53 52n 125 58w. Completely enclosed and
beautiful, But 30 kt gusts would hit us broadside and heel us over while
anchored. Twice this action pulled out our set anchor and we dragged and had
to reset in the rain. 3rd time was a charm and we held for the night. Today
the weather is good again and we are motoring happily south flanked by pine
forests, mountains, and waterfalls


Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2008 1:56 PM
Subject: More inside passage

On Friday we came to Lowe inlet with Verney falls. A must stop and we
anchored 100 feet off the falls so that the current held us in place. We
were going to spend the day and night here, but found the serpent in this
Garden of Eden. There were swarms of small black gnats which at first seemed
only a minor nuisance. Jeff and I found the truth at the same time--they
were vampire gnats and we were forced to flee. On Sat we came to Butedale a
large cannery built in 1909. It was a state of the art glorious place and
now a falling down ruin. Lou is the lone occupant with his dog Bert and Cat
Tiger. The 3 story bunkhouse collapsed last year under 20 ft snows. Bert’s
dad was taken by wolves and Tigers mom was had by eagles. The old power
plant still stands with 2 hydro generators--one still turns but no longer
generates. So this huge piece of machinery turns a small belt on a car
alternator which continuously charges a bank of batteries. Then an inverter
gives him his electricity.

Sent: Monday, October 06, 2008 1:58 PM
Subject: Hurricane

After the Vampire gnats (we are still itching) and Butedale, Pipe Dream
spent a perfect night in Bottleneck Inlet. 2 Australian sailboats we
there--also heading south. Bottleneck had its salmon stream and harbor seal
along with close in high wooded cliffs. Streams of low clouds flowed through
the pines. Sunday we powered down to Bella Bella a large Native American
town--a raw trip with blustery winds and cold rain. LOTS of logs in the
water requiring continuous watch ahead. The Coast Guard now broadcasting storm
warnings (more than 50 kts of wind). So we are holed up at Shearwater Marina
along with all the local fishing boats. Monday morning the CG now calling
for hurricane force winds starting this afternoon. It’s blowing 4 outside
with sunshine (does the coast guard take its cue from Channel 7?). But the
locals are taking it seriously and so are we.