Jeff's Log ~ Friday, October 10th, 2008

Friday Morning, October 10, 2008 Port Hardy, British Columbia, Canada 0229

I guess that I must have turned in a little too early last night because here it is at 0230, and I am awake and raring to go. The days are blending into each other, and time is flying by, even though it seems like it is dragging by slowly. We are now at about 160 miles from our final destination for the winter, which is in Vancouver.

We left Shear Water Marina on the eighth, at about 1000. We stopped at the fuel dock and topped off the two fuel bladders, to make sure we had enough fuel for possibly motoring all the way to Vancouver. We then continued our trip down the Inland Passage to Fish Egg Inlet. The morning weather was fine. It was possibly some of the nicest weather we have had since entering Canada. After lunch it turned stormy again, with blustery winds and hard cold rain. It was pouring as we entered Green Island cove and set the anchor. I cooked dinner of fried chicken, mashed potatoes and corn, and made a dessert of apples baked with cinnamon sticks and a crumb topping. After the cold and rainy afternoon, the food was comforting, and as the night turned totally black, we both went to bed rather early.

The fore and aft heaters still are acting up, so we warmed up the boat with only the main salon heat. It got really chilly at about 0200. I broke out my heated back massaging pad and laid on it with the heat on, and quickly fell back to sleep. We woke to clear skies and after morning coffee, pulled the anchor and got under way once again. We had about seventy miles to Port Hardy. The morning was again absolutely beautiful, as we traversed Fitzhugh Sound, and the Queen Charlotte Strait. There were storms building west of us that provided excellent sailing breeze. There was a slight problem though. In Shearwater, with high winds predicted, I had lashed the mainsail and closed the cover. In order to put the main up, I had to undo all of that. We sailed under jib alone for a while, but it was very ineffective with the wind so far behind us. I got up on the boom and began releasing the cover clips, but in the large quartering swells, I decided that it was a little too dangerous to be up there.

We poked along, until after lunch and a slight turn in our course put the seas a little more behind us. I pulled the boom to the side, stood on the dingy, and got the rest of the clips undone. There was some motivation provided by another sailboat that was closing on us from behind. When I see another sailboat, it is always a race; I don’t care where I am! Scott turned Pipe Dream into the wind, we raised the main, then resumed our course, and the other boat quickly shrank and disappeared over the transom. With the large quartering waves, the autopilot did a little too much wandering for my taste, so I drove the boat. It was good fun and a little bit of a workout, as we had twenty plus knots of breeze from directly astern and three meter quartering seas. I needed some practice driving downwind, and got it. After a while, I was confident enough to close my eyes and drive by the feel of the wind on my neck and ears. I have never been able to do that before. We picked up some kelp on the keel, and the boat slowed to fewer than ten knots, and down below it sounded like a machine gun rapping on the bottom of the hull. The turbulence caused would make the whole boat wobble as we surfed down the waves. We had to jibe in a short while, so I drove her like that to the jibe point.

Jibing is the act of taking the stern through the wind, and the main has to be swung around to the other side. Because of the kelp, we had to tack the boat around to the other board, using the engine, and allowing the boat to stop and begin moving backwards. Tacking the boat puts the bow through the wind. As we suspected, a very large bunch of kelp came off the keel. As we stated to sail, we could see that we were still dragging it, so we put the bow in the wind again, and let her back until it was clear. After getting rid of our underwater baggage, Pipe dream felt like a sports car. Our course took us to a beam reach, and the wind freshened to twenty-eight knots. It sure didn’t take long to complete the last four miles. I was a little occupied watching the course over ground instrument to avoid shallows to monitor speed, but when I did glance at it, it was twelve and a half knots. That’s Cruisin’!!! As we approached the small harbor, we sadly had to drop the main and end a very nice day of sailing, becoming a power boat again for the short trip to our dock. Port Hardy is a small resort town. The marina is quiet and the people are friendly. The restaurant is a cozy kind of place, with hockey on the TV. After having the special of ribs and chicken, and a piece of cheesecake, I called it a night. Tomorrow should be a fairly easy, short forty mile day. Our slip in Vancouver will not be available until Monday, so we will take our time finishing the journey.

Friday Night, October 10, 2008, 2100

This morning, after coffee, I was going to have breakfast up at the pub. As I stepped onto the dock, I realized that the entire dock was covered in frost. That is something that I haven’t seen in a long time. The last part of the floating dock before the ramp was extremely slippery. After the treacherous walk, the restaurant was found to be closed temporarily, so I reversed course and slipped and slid my way back to the boat for an English muffin with jelly.

The weather God smiled on us again today. We could not sail, but it was a totally clear, sunny day and the mountain tops were all covered in fresh snow as we started this morning. Visibility was at least twenty miles, and the wind was light and on the nose. As the day progressed, we watched the snow cover disappear from the lower elevations due to the warm sun. Tonight we are anchored in a place called Pott’s Lagoon. It is a very clear night, and the half moon is so bright, that I thought that maybe sunglasses would be needed to comfortably look around. There are four floating homes nearby, but only one is occupied at present. As we anchored and got settled, we observed a middle aged couple tending to their chores. It was pretty neat when we pulled up and saw the smoke coming from the chimney. Scott at first did not like the idea of anchoring in close proximity to the cabins, but after a while, he was ok with it. This place is so quiet and sheltered from the wind, that for the first time ever, we could hear a sea gull land in the water at a distance of seventy five yards. They are actually quite noisy when they take off and land. This evening’s dinner was spaghetti with meat sauce and a bottle of wine. It is tough being a pair of bachelors on a sailing adventure.

Captain Scott's Log ~ Friday, October 10th, 2008

1:09 PM
Subject: Vancouver Island

3 days in Shearwater hunkered down for the "hurricane" that never even
whimpered. On the last night we had sleet and hail all night. Snow plows
were working inland. Wed I had to push on. We sailed by NAMU another old
cannery with dozens of old stately crumbling building. Like Burkedale it had
only one resident. These places were a big deal a hundred years ago. Much to
my amazement both places are on the world map that hangs on the bulkhead.
That night was in yet another perfectly sheltered cove--Green Island 51 38
5n 127 50w. Thursday we left the inside passage to sail across Queen
Charollete Strait and sail we did. 25 kts from behind got us surfing. Nearly
70 miles to the NW tip of Vancouver Island to Port Hardy, a resort. Thur and
Fri have been clear and cold. Outside temp 41 this morning at 10am. It froze
last night and there is ice on the dock.

Jeff's Log ~ Tuesday, October 7th, 2008

Tuesday, October 7, 2008 Shearwater Marina, Bella Bella, British Columbia

On our way from The Verny falls, we stopped at an old cannery called Butedale. The place is mostly in ruins, but there is a caretaker living there by the name of Lou. He is known as Butedale Lou. He stays there with his dog named Bert, who was born there and orphaned when he was a pup by a pack of wolves that killed the rest of his family. There is also an orange cat that looks like George, who is named Tiger.George is a lucky cat that is owned by a very dear friend of mine, Ivani. Tiger and Bert met us at the fairly solid, but rustic, floating dock. They were followed by Lou, who also came down to meet us, even though it was raining.

There were lots of interesting things to look at in the ruins. Lou took us on a little tour and told us how things were in the cannery heydays. The old power house that was a hydro-electric plant is still there, and the pipes that run down to it from the lake above still supply the stream of water which still is used to turn the old generator. The big generators no longer function, but the machinery still is used to turn an automotive alternator wit a belt driven off of the old armature. He has an inverter which supplies AC power for vcr and TV, as well as a little bit of lighting. There is a 12 volt battery bank which is charged by the alternator. That keeps the refrigeration working, as during the summer, Lou sells ice cream to his visitors. He also does painted native style carvings out of a large yellow cedar log that he drug in to shore a couple of years ago. He cuts and split’s the log himself, and makes his own finished boards from it, utilizing a hydro powered planer which is part of the old machinery. Quite a tough old fella, I must say.

He seems very happy and content, but is talking about retiring and returning to civilization, although he gets a gleam in his eye when he says that Butedale is the perfect place to live. I was impressed when we walked in to his home, and with a single wood burning stove, it was dry and very large inside. Things were kept pretty clean too. He lives in what was the mess hall. There are a couple of cabins, and during summer, he also rents rooms to fishermen and hunters. You would have to enjoy rustic living to stay there! After our tour, Lou joined us aboard Pipe Dream, and we all had a cocktail. Bert waited patiently in the cockpit for his master to finish. Lou enjoyed seeing the map of where the boat has been, and after a short while, it was time for us to leave, as we wanted to get to the next anchorage before dark. Lou gave us a hand with our lines, and we were off. We anchored in Bottleneck Cove, along with two other sailboats from Australia.

Morning found us leaving in the rain, and both of them staying, awaiting better weather. We made our course for Bella Bella, and arrived here at the shearwater Marina well before dark. The weather did deteriorate all day, and right outside the pass to Bella Bella, it was downright nasty with the cold rain being blown sideways, making the awning all but useless. My feet got cold, and I turned into a whimpering baby, and had to turn the heat on when my watch was completed. It’s amazing to me how cold feet can do that.

Shearwater has all of the proper stuff. A bar and restaurant that is pretty good, a Laundromat, and clean restrooms and showers. Hurricane winds were predicted, so we stayed an extra day. We never saw any of that wind, but I was glad for just a little time to relax ashore, with the shore power connected, and the heat on. It is nice to have a dry atmosphere for a change. As we were getting prepared to leave today, Scott noticed that the radar appeared to be cocked. The gimbaled mount that has been cracked since I got on the boat is now really cracked, and was in danger of breaking. I went up on the main halyard, and disassembled the radar antenna and removed the whole thing from the backstay. It took a while to gain access to all of the wiring, and supporting myself while not losing any of the pieces was quite a feat. I got the job completed, and now have a few aches and pains, and a stiff joint or two.

As I was putting away all of the stuff from that project, I noticed that the heat in the fore and aft cabins had quit working. The seawater pump was not running. I pulled up the necessary floor boards, and discovered a broken shaft for the impeller. I robbed the necessary parts from the used spare pump, and had that repaired by lunchtime. We chose to stay here another night, as there were still some squalls coming through from the storm that missed us. The dinner special was lamb shank with risotto, so staying the extra day turned out just fine for me.

Captains Scott's Log ~ Tuesday, October 7th, 2008

Subject: hurricane & radar

Yesterdays hurricane amounted to 2 kts of wind gusting to 8. So today I got
the forcast in writing from the Coast Guard: "Today Tonight and Wednesday
Hurricane force wind warning in effect. Wind NW 55 to 65 kts". Its blowing 7
now so I decided to leave but noted a problem with the backstay radar mount.

The radar was tilted down 30 degrees with the front end pointing upwards. In
retrospect my first clue should have been several days ago --then I noted
something on radar approaching us very fast. I ran up on deck in time to see
the heliocopter pass. Now the radar is a hazard ready to fall on the
helmsmans head. So the morning was spent getting it down. Hope there is no
thick fog between here and Vancouver. Too late to leave so we will let this
hurricane pass and head south Wed

Jeff's Log ~ Friday, October 3rd, 2008

Friday, October 3,2008 53 23.82N 129 17.20W, Otter Shoal, British Columbia, Canada

Yesterday, we just beat the high winds and most of the rain across Dixon Entrance, to our anchorage Kumealon Inlet. We did have to anchor three times because the anchor drug in the high winds. The third time proved to be the charm, and we stayed firmly anchored until morning. After a dinner of chicken with mushroom gravy, it was lights out.

Today, we slept in a little bit, and were under way by about 0900. The weather today was delightful, with partly cloudy skies, and light wind and the usual current on the nose. We anchored in a beautiful spot called Nettle Basin for lunch. It was a terrific anchorage right in front of Verney Waterfall. The waterfall is at the end of the river, and the river apparently breeds biting flies which drove us away after lunch. When we pulled into the cove, there were a lot of bubbles in the water. As we got closer to the falls, we encountered what at first appeared to be floating ice. On closer inspection, it was foam from the waterfall. Quite an interesting phenomenon, heh? We were wondering if maybe that had something to do with the flies.

At any rate, we headed back out into the channel, and traveled for another three and a half hours south to Otter Shoal, which is a fairly open spot, but fairly calm today. A south east blow would not be good, but I don’t think we need to worry about that tonight. We haven’t seen any otters, but we did hear the call of loons which is pretty neat. Tonight is a very simple dinner. We are making hot dogs and pork n beans. I’m going to have mine with relish, sour kraut, ketchup and mustard. It will be an early start tomorrow, so I will turn in early tonight. This is not really an exciting part of the journey is it!

Jeff's Log ~ Wednesday, October 1st, 2008

Wednesday, October 1,2008, Foggy Bay, Alaska

We left Ketchikan on a glorious sunny morning. A little back-tracking was necessary for fuel and propane. The fuel dock provided for both needs, and we were on our way at about 1100. The trip down the channel this time was an awesome one with the splendor of the scenery visible for miles. About an hour after lunch, however, things began to deteriorate, and before long, we had gusts to 35 knots on the nose, and seas were building rapidly. Our destination of Foggy Bay was not far away, and we got there with a minimum of discomfort. The channel in to the anchorage was very narrow, and Scott drove the boat slowly while I directed him from the nav. Station. There was only one time when I had to really get tough with him because he did not want to follow my direction. After we were anchored, I showed him on the chart what he could not see under water, and we are still friends.

Ken left us some Friskies cat food to try in the crab trap. I cleaned out the very rotten chicken that produced no results, and installed the cat food. That yielded the usual results this morning. You guessed it, an empty trap. They sure make it look easy on the deadliest catch tv show! While we were at anchor last night, the sky was full of stars, and they were so bright, one could almost read in the cockpit. We fell asleep to the sound of wolves howling. Sometimes close and fairly loud, and sometimes distant and very hushed. That sure was neat. I wonder what they were talking about.

This morning, we were up at 0700, and the tide was low. We both could see what we navigated through yesterday afternoon, and congratulated each other on the job that we did. Navigation out was done the same way, retracing the path that was left on the chart plotter. We were safely outside the rocks by 0815, and Scott took the first watch. We expect wind and seas to build all day as we go to the Chatham Straights, on the other side of the Dixon Inlet.

Captain Scott's Log ~ October 1st, 3rd, 5th & 6th 2008

Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 2:20 PM
Subject: almost gales and wolves

On Mon the guests went to the airport at 10am. Their plane was delayed for
repair and they took off around 8pm. The airport bar bill exceeded their air
tickets. Back on the boat, Jeff and I got laundry done, engine repaired,
refueled, boat cleaned up, refill propane tanks, and re-fix the autopilot.
The weather perfect and Tuesday was clear sunny and beautiful. So we headed
south for Canada. Things changed fast as they do in these parts. By
afternoon the wind was 25 on the nose and big rolling seas were beginning to
break. The weather service gave gale warnings till midnight wed. So I
stopped at Foggy Bay which is fully protected on all sides prepared to spend
wed there as well. Getting in the narrow entrance with the seas breaking on
rocks on both sides was scary but the millpond inside made it worth it. At
sunset a wolf began to howl and for a half hour we could follow his progress
through the woods. In the silence of the night the howls awoke me at
midnight and again at 4 am. Wed morning dawned clear and calm. The weather
service now reported no gale but deteriorating weather so we left ASAP to
try for Prince Rupert. Now, motor sailing across the Dixon Entrance in good
weather.

Sent: Friday, October 03, 2008 3:58 PM
Subject: Inside passage

Pipe Dream got across the Dixon Entrance in nice weather. This is one of the
few places open to the Pacific Ocean. Freighters offshore were reporting
high wind and dropping barometers but we waltzed into Prince Rupert
unscratched. Clearing into Canada was only a phone call. Prince Rupert is a
real town. Unlike Any place we went in Alaska, Prince Rupert is connected to
the rest of the continent by roads. At noon the outside air temp is 52 and
water temp is 50. Still we have the feeling of being south. Thursday we
pushed on into the inside passage--nearly 100 miles of natural channel
taking us further south. The start was easy but by afternoon the Pacific
gale began to push ashore. Even in the channel we had 30 kts with rain on
the nose. There are good anchorages everywhere. So I quit early and
anchored in Kumealon Inlet 53 52n 125 58w. Completely enclosed and
beautiful, But 30 kt gusts would hit us broadside and heel us over while
anchored. Twice this action pulled out our set anchor and we dragged and had
to reset in the rain. 3rd time was a charm and we held for the night. Today
the weather is good again and we are motoring happily south flanked by pine
forests, mountains, and waterfalls


Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2008 1:56 PM
Subject: More inside passage

On Friday we came to Lowe inlet with Verney falls. A must stop and we
anchored 100 feet off the falls so that the current held us in place. We
were going to spend the day and night here, but found the serpent in this
Garden of Eden. There were swarms of small black gnats which at first seemed
only a minor nuisance. Jeff and I found the truth at the same time--they
were vampire gnats and we were forced to flee. On Sat we came to Butedale a
large cannery built in 1909. It was a state of the art glorious place and
now a falling down ruin. Lou is the lone occupant with his dog Bert and Cat
Tiger. The 3 story bunkhouse collapsed last year under 20 ft snows. Bert’s
dad was taken by wolves and Tigers mom was had by eagles. The old power
plant still stands with 2 hydro generators--one still turns but no longer
generates. So this huge piece of machinery turns a small belt on a car
alternator which continuously charges a bank of batteries. Then an inverter
gives him his electricity.

Sent: Monday, October 06, 2008 1:58 PM
Subject: Hurricane

After the Vampire gnats (we are still itching) and Butedale, Pipe Dream
spent a perfect night in Bottleneck Inlet. 2 Australian sailboats we
there--also heading south. Bottleneck had its salmon stream and harbor seal
along with close in high wooded cliffs. Streams of low clouds flowed through
the pines. Sunday we powered down to Bella Bella a large Native American
town--a raw trip with blustery winds and cold rain. LOTS of logs in the
water requiring continuous watch ahead. The Coast Guard now broadcasting storm
warnings (more than 50 kts of wind). So we are holed up at Shearwater Marina
along with all the local fishing boats. Monday morning the CG now calling
for hurricane force winds starting this afternoon. It’s blowing 4 outside
with sunshine (does the coast guard take its cue from Channel 7?). But the
locals are taking it seriously and so are we.